Yet Another Newbie ID

[mac44mag]

I'm new to Luger's and know just enough to know that I'm WAAAAY over my head.

A dear friend passed about three months ago. Last week his widow called and informed me that they'd found, "...some guns..." in cases in the basement. Yeah, I know, but this one really happened. Anyway, this was among the bunch.

From my very limited knowledge of Luger's, it appears to be a pre-war 1936 "i" series Mauser. All numbers with the exception of the magazine match. Gun retains 90-95% of original blue (assuming it hasn't been reblued...ears still show tool marks, all straw parts are correct color). Bore is absolutely pristine. Light wear on the normal sharp edges.

Magazine appears to be a late war issue (Pinned plastic base, no SN). It exhibits "fxo" over a "straight wing/37" and "P08" (upright) on the base and another faint 'straight-wing/37" at the top of the magazine with the magazine on it's spine. No visible proof marks. A Type 6?

Both my friend and his wife were/are anti-firearm and the guns were inherited. I don't believe that either of them realized what they had.

When I got it the action was frozen solid. Probably hadn't been racked in 30+ years. It took 3 days soaking to get the toggle open and do a light field strip. Still cannot get the toggle pin out to clean the toggle/firing pin assembly and really don't relish beating on it to try and force it.

The family is attempting to establish estimated value for estate purposes. Any information on history, value, etc. that you might offer would be greatly appreciated.

mrerick: Your FAQ has been invaluable to this point. Thank you SO much for the time and effort that you and others have put into this tool.

Thanks to all in advance for your help.

Mac44mag

[tomaustin]

1936 is a special year for Lugers.....details are beautifully finished.....beginning in 1937, detail finishing began to be replaced with less effort because of the need to increase production............
most of mine are 1936, by choice......

[Mac Cat]

Lovely Luger - it's a keeper !

really nice pictures, too!

[mac44mag]

Re: Pics...The FAQ really helped, but I forgot to put the year in the post title. Oh, well...next time.

Had to take the gun outdoors. My shop lighting wasn't bright enough to give me the depth-of-field that I needed, manual exposure on a tripod didn't work out, and I didn't have a soft-box or off-camera umbrella to use. On-camera flash gave too much glare/reflection even with a diffuser.

This photo stuff was a lot easier 20 years ago when I could see.

mac44mag

[wlyon]

Nice looking luger. I would tap lightly on the toggle pin with a correct size piece of dowling. The pin should come out the left side as you are behind the gun. It should come out fairly easily. If not soak it again and tap lightly on it. Then the dowl. Bill

[mac44mag]

Bill,

Thanks for the reply! My thoughts, exactly.

I tried a piece of 1/4" hardwood dowel, but no joy. Guess I'll just have to just suck it up, be patient, and let it soak.

I'm also a native Montanan out of the Bitterroot. Spent some time in the Navy, then lived in the HiLine area for 30 years or so.

Don't miss it quite as much anymore. Not over three or four times a day.

Leonard

[Edward Tinker]

Wait, I'd like to see what you consider the toggle pin. If the rear pin that holds the slide together, then its like Bill said above.
If its the firing pin thingy, then it pushes in slightly and turn.
Just like the take down lever, realize the pressure, then it turns easily.

[Doubs]

Make certain that the firing pin is not cocked before trying to remove the axel pin. You can lift the toggles until they first break, squeeze the trigger and let the toggles down OR you can **** it and dry fire. Then, once you've removed the upper, use the dowel to tap the pin out right to left.

If you remove the upper with the firing pin cocked, you can simply push the disconnector pin inward - not back - at the front of the sear bar to release the firing pin.

In the picture below, the disconnector pin is circled. The large numbered pin at the rear is the axel pin. It has a flange on the left side and must be removed right to left.

[mac44mag]

Thanks, guys! Yeah, it's the axle pin. The firing pin appears to operate with snap caps. In fact, the gun now appears functional. It's just that the idea of half a century (or more) of gunk inside the
bolt/firing pin housing bothers me (sorry for the weak vocabulary...still learning the terminology). Also, the trigger still seems stiff, and when used with snap caps the "click" of the firing pin just doesn't sound crisp and clean. Don't know how else to describe it. Had a Remington 700 that had lived most of it's life in a saddle scabbard as the trail gun for an outfitter. Had the same sound until I disassembled and soaked the bolt.

Didn't know about the de-cocking, though. Note taken! Thanks.

If/when we decide to go further into it, we'll take it to a gunsmith for a detailed breakdown/cleaning/inspection.

Anyone have any recommendations as to a good penetrating oil to use that won't harm the finish?

Thanks, again, folks!

mac44mag

[mrerick]

Welcome to the forum. Thank you for helping your friend.

The pistol has a retail value of $1850 to $2000 if all matching and in original finish with that magazine and in that condition. A formal appraisal could be done, but for an estate, that estimate should be adequate.

You can use a blunt flat tip bamboo chop stick and a polymer faced hammer to gently tap out the rear axle pin once you have relieved any firing pin tension that might be on the upper. Be sure to completely support the receiver while gently tapping. The pin only comes out to the left (numbered) side of the receiver. Don't try and remove the other axle pins once the toggle train is out of the receiver.

If you do any more soaking, pull off the grips. Be very careful when removing them - particularly the left grip. Lift it just enough to slide it down from the area of the safety lever to avoid chipping it in that area.

It is a very nice Luger and appears to be in high condition. If the new owners have political issues with firearms, do your best to help them place the guns in responsible hands that will preserve their history.

A side note, my 1936 Mauser made Luger is also in the "i" block of serial numbers, a couple hundred earlier than this one. In this period, Mauser was still making Lugers using the rust bluing technique, and these are some of the last of these before transition to salt bluing, which started in 1937.

[mac44mag]

mrerick:

Thank you for the estimate. That's exactly what we needed. Of course, you KNOW in who's 'responsible hands' I want it to land. Now, all I have to do is convince the CFO of 54 years that it's really an investment that we can pass on to our son. Has anyone ever actually had any success with that approach?

Relieved the tension in the firing block, but the axle pin is still stuck. Now soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil. I've used it before when rehabbing RC model engines and small weed eater types, and it's never caused any problems. Keep your fingers and toes crossed. Don't want to go much deeper than that on my own hook.

I never thought that I'd ever have the opportunity to touch a Luger, much less field strip and do a light refurb on one. I've owned some really nice firearms over the years, but this one just seems special. Can't tie it down. Maybe it's the provenance? The workmanship? All I know is that it looks extremely appropriate in the safe next to my Dad's 1911 from Europe.

Thanks, again, to all who have contributed and will continue to do so. Your knowledge and experience is greatly appreciated.

mac44mag

[mrerick]

You should not transfer a Luger within a family at full retail value. That value is mainly for retail purchase and insurance purposes. Transfer within a family in a direct sale should be more like a direct collector to collector sale. Perhaps $400 - $600 less.

Look at some of the online dealers like Simpson Ltd for equivalent sales at retail pricing.

[mac44mag]

Understood. THANKS!

One benchmark we're using for some of the other more modern firearms is to contact local dealers for the price they'd pay for a direct buy then value the gun at 130% of that. That usually puts the price in the range you're suggesting, or at about 60-70% of Big Book values. Local dealers are offering somewhere in the neighborhood of 45-50% of BBGV prices.

Thank you, yet again, for the excellent and timely guidance.

mac357mag

[pmanton]

I recently paid $1800 for a 1937 not nearly as nice as your 36.

[mac44mag]

OK, how do I thank someone for a post?

Thanks!

Leonard

[DTR04]

Lower right corner of the post. Click the thumbs up.

[1994Stoeger]

Ok, why does it seem like everyone else stumbles into such good scenarios with unmolested Lugers?

(Ok, had to get that out. All pointless bitching aside, hopefully you will become the custodian of this nice piece.]

I suspect there are more opinions regarding the “correct” soaking medium for this task than there are members on this forum. My thoughts go to a petroleum-based lubricant product with a very low viscosity at ambient temperature as a good place to start. For what it is worth, I have had very good results in the past for such applications (poorly stored guns with stuck parts) using automotive transmission fluid. One could argue Dexron vs Mercon vs ATF+4 (Chrysler). Most, if not all, of the above have fairly low viscosities/surface tension (for getting into cracks, nooks, and crevices), are not very volatile, are designed to have prolonged contact with a variety of metals as well as composite components, as well as having some detergent qualities. No, they are not “dedicated gun solvents” and some here will likely vehemently disagree. After soaking for anywhere between a few hours to a week or more, I have never found anything worth salvaging which wouldn’t eventually yield to a good soak in the above.

Your results may vary. Good luck. It looks like a nice keeper if you get it.

[ithacaartist]

Originally Posted by 1994Stoeger

some here will likely vehemently disagree.

I think I'll vehemently agree. In fact, I've concluded that just about any petroleum based product of low viscosity will work, from PB Blaster, WD-40, Liquid Wrench to kerosene or fuel oil. Each mechanic has his favorite or expedient, but I think patience while the parts soak is the main ingredient for success whatever one chooses to use.