1940 restoration

homefries04 · 08-27-2017, 01:46 PM

Hello everyone. Got my first Luger about a week ago and got a bunch of help from everyone here on the boards. I have a well well worn 1940 S/42 with non-matching numbers. Took it out this weekend and it shoots, so that's a plus. The bore is clean, and that's about where the good news ends. As you can see from the pics, I have some work ahead of me.

Edward Tinker · 08-27-2017, 01:50 PM

It depends on what you want? It could just be blued or Cerakote (sp)

homefries04 · 08-27-2017, 01:51 PM

Step 1: detail strip. So far I have everything completely taken part except one roll pin on the top of the toggle and the dogleg pin behind the trigger plate. Any info or tricks on that one would be appreciated. The small parts are all in decent shape, just need polished up and cleaned. The frame has some rust that will need scrubbed and the barrel is going to be consuming quite a bit of my life in the upcoming days.

homefries04 · 08-27-2017, 01:53 PM

I would prefer to blue it, but if the pitting is just too deep I will end up filling the pits and cerekotong jt. My concern is to what extent can parts be cerakoted. Internally parts can be cold blued but if it's visible I want it to match. Pins and whatnot could pose a problem.

DonVoigt · 08-27-2017, 02:06 PM

Given the fine pitting, I'd just blue the whole thing and let it go.
Once evenly colored, it won't look so bad.

I don't believe Cerakote is a good idea for a luger, would look really strange- may as well paint it.
JMHO.

homefries04 · 08-27-2017, 02:09 PM

Cerakoting a Luger just kind of feels wrong doesn't it? Haha

DavidJayUden · 08-27-2017, 04:36 PM

Matt bluing may help minimize the pitting. Bead blast it then blue it. Give a matt black finish. But don't throw a lot of money at it.
dju

rhuff · 08-27-2017, 04:40 PM

Some folks would glass bead that Luger to help camouflage the pitting, and then blue it. That will work and produce a matte blue finish. It is likely the easiest way to prep the metal for refinishing.

If it were mine, I would spend the time with Emory paper/wet-dry paper/etc. to try and get as much pitting out, or swallowed, as possible. I would not try for a polished finish as it will show any remaining pits quickly. Perhaps a 220 grit paper finish or there about could do a nice job for you. Sort of a trial and error. I would blue it, and not "coat it". You can produce a very acceptable shooter Luger from what you have there.

Having the Luger function reliably is a huge plus, in my way of thinking. The rest is window dressing......and the fun part(at least to me). Good luck!!

EDIT:
David posted while I was typing. I am a slow typist!!

kurusu · 08-27-2017, 06:42 PM

Maybe parkerizing it would do the trick.

4 Scale · 08-27-2017, 07:36 PM

For pins that are a bit tight, I have used a drill press. Starter punches probably work better than the press on really tight pins. The small pin in the toggle knob has a dimple on top due to the manufacturing process - it is not a roll pin. It presses out from the bottom.

The small toggle knob pin and the s-link pin are the most difficult pins in the Luger pistol to remove, at least for me.

homefries04 · 08-27-2017, 09:11 PM

The frame lock pin sheered in half while trying to remove. I'll try and remove that small vertical toggle pin tomorrow, just need a smaller punch for that one. Does that go from the bottom up or from the top down? Whats the trick to the dogleg (s-link) pin, sliding something thin and flexible behind it or just not being afraid of giving it some extra force?

DonVoigt · 08-28-2017, 10:28 AM

Frame lock pin? If you mean the take down lever spring, it is "L" shaped and projects down into the frame in addition to fitting in the groove. I use a 1/16" pin punch to get it moving from the bottom.

The small pin in the toggle is best removed by driving from bottom to top, if you just want to dis-assemble, you don't have to drive it all the way out, just flush with the inside bottom of the cut for the pin- so the pin can slide out.

S Link- Support on a hard wood, brass, or steel surface with a hole to receive the pin. Use a short nose "starting" punch of the correct size. You may need a 2lb. hammer, once it moves, switch to a long nose punch and drive it out and into the receiving hole in the support.

Hope this helps.

gunbugs · 08-28-2017, 07:35 PM

I would give it a gentle polish, by hand, with abrasives on blocks, to keep the edges sharp. Then, I would rust blue it. Time consuming, but the best luger finish going.

Eugen · 08-28-2017, 08:21 PM

Don't forget to get one of Jim Solomon's main spring tools. It will significantly reduce the requisite amount of cussing and spitting required to reinstall the spring in the frame. His tool not only works well, but it looks great too.

homefries04 · 08-28-2017, 09:37 PM

After stripping it I just assumed the Germans hated knuckles and the flesh around fingernails.

08-27-2017, 01:46 PM	#1
homefries04 User Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	1940 restoration Hello everyone. Got my first Luger about a week ago and got a bunch of help from everyone here on the boards. I have a well well worn 1940 S/42 with non-matching numbers. Took it out this weekend and it shoots, so that's a plus. The bore is clean, and that's about where the good news ends. As you can see from the pics, I have some work ahead of me. Attached Thumbnails

08-27-2017, 01:50 PM	#2
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,935 Thanks: 2,034 Thanked 4,533 Times in 2,093 Posts	It depends on what you want? It could just be blued or Cerakote (sp) Last edited by Edward Tinker; 08-28-2017 at 08:18 PM.

08-27-2017, 01:51 PM	#3
homefries04 User Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Step 1: detail strip. So far I have everything completely taken part except one roll pin on the top of the toggle and the dogleg pin behind the trigger plate. Any info or tricks on that one would be appreciated. The small parts are all in decent shape, just need polished up and cleaned. The frame has some rust that will need scrubbed and the barrel is going to be consuming quite a bit of my life in the upcoming days. Attached Thumbnails

08-27-2017, 02:06 PM	#5
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,442 Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts	Given the fine pitting, I'd just blue the whole thing and let it go. Once evenly colored, it won't look so bad. I don't believe Cerakote is a good idea for a luger, would look really strange- may as well paint it. JMHO. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

08-28-2017, 10:28 AM	#12
DonVoigt User Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: near Charlotte NC Posts: 4,681 Thanks: 1,442 Thanked 4,350 Times in 2,040 Posts	Frame lock pin? If you mean the take down lever spring, it is "L" shaped and projects down into the frame in addition to fitting in the groove. I use a 1/16" pin punch to get it moving from the bottom. The small pin in the toggle is best removed by driving from bottom to top, if you just want to dis-assemble, you don't have to drive it all the way out, just flush with the inside bottom of the cut for the pin- so the pin can slide out. S Link- Support on a hard wood, brass, or steel surface with a hole to receive the pin. Use a short nose "starting" punch of the correct size. You may need a 2lb. hammer, once it moves, switch to a long nose punch and drive it out and into the receiving hole in the support. Hope this helps. __________________ 03man(Don Voigt); Luger student and collector. Looking for DWM side plate: 69 ; Dreyse 1907 pistol K.S. Gendarmerie

08-27-2017, 01:53 PM	#4
homefries04 User Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	I would prefer to blue it, but if the pitting is just too deep I will end up filling the pits and cerekotong jt. My concern is to what extent can parts be cerakoted. Internally parts can be cold blued but if it's visible I want it to match. Pins and whatnot could pose a problem.

08-27-2017, 02:09 PM	#6
homefries04 User Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Cerakoting a Luger just kind of feels wrong doesn't it? Haha

08-27-2017, 04:36 PM	#7
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	Matt bluing may help minimize the pitting. Bead blast it then blue it. Give a matt black finish. But don't throw a lot of money at it. dju

08-27-2017, 04:40 PM	#8
rhuff Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Az. Posts: 2,291 Thanks: 2,709 Thanked 972 Times in 717 Posts	Some folks would glass bead that Luger to help camouflage the pitting, and then blue it. That will work and produce a matte blue finish. It is likely the easiest way to prep the metal for refinishing. If it were mine, I would spend the time with Emory paper/wet-dry paper/etc. to try and get as much pitting out, or swallowed, as possible. I would not try for a polished finish as it will show any remaining pits quickly. Perhaps a 220 grit paper finish or there about could do a nice job for you. Sort of a trial and error. I would blue it, and not "coat it". You can produce a very acceptable shooter Luger from what you have there. Having the Luger function reliably is a huge plus, in my way of thinking. The rest is window dressing......and the fun part(at least to me). Good luck!! EDIT: David posted while I was typing. I am a slow typist!!

08-27-2017, 06:42 PM	#9
kurusu User Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 1,225 Thanks: 2,679 Thanked 930 Times in 509 Posts	Maybe parkerizing it would do the trick.

08-27-2017, 07:36 PM	#10
4 Scale User Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 544 Thanks: 194 Thanked 489 Times in 251 Posts	For pins that are a bit tight, I have used a drill press. Starter punches probably work better than the press on really tight pins. The small pin in the toggle knob has a dimple on top due to the manufacturing process - it is not a roll pin. It presses out from the bottom. The small toggle knob pin and the s-link pin are the most difficult pins in the Luger pistol to remove, at least for me.

08-27-2017, 09:11 PM	#11
homefries04 User Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	The frame lock pin sheered in half while trying to remove. I'll try and remove that small vertical toggle pin tomorrow, just need a smaller punch for that one. Does that go from the bottom up or from the top down? Whats the trick to the dogleg (s-link) pin, sliding something thin and flexible behind it or just not being afraid of giving it some extra force?

08-28-2017, 07:35 PM	#13
gunbugs Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska. Home of the best moose. Posts: 660 Thanks: 366 Thanked 1,179 Times in 395 Posts	I would give it a gentle polish, by hand, with abrasives on blocks, to keep the edges sharp. Then, I would rust blue it. Time consuming, but the best luger finish going.

08-28-2017, 08:21 PM	#14
Eugen User Join Date: Apr 2016 Location: Newburgh,IN Posts: 790 Thanks: 394 Thanked 631 Times in 334 Posts	Don't forget to get one of Jim Solomon's main spring tools. It will significantly reduce the requisite amount of cussing and spitting required to reinstall the spring in the frame. His tool not only works well, but it looks great too. __________________ “God created war so that Americans would learn geography.” ― Mark Twain

08-28-2017, 09:37 PM	#15
homefries04 User Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 14 Thanks: 1 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	After stripping it I just assumed the Germans hated knuckles and the flesh around fingernails.