SPEC 308 in Luger

stressed · 02-20-2014, 06:43 AM

For those not familiar SPEC 308 is the copper paste lube used by Glock from the factory that comes on their new pistols.

Now on a shooter luger, I like to keep them on the dryer side. I'll apply oil to the sides of breech block and rails, leaving a small film - but not wiped off like the rest of the gun. Action glides like butter when cycled manually.

I notice after a day, I'll take the gun down and it will be dry, as if the oil evaporated. And this will be without firing as well.

I was thinking for the sides of breech block and rails, you could use Glock's SPEC 308 as it will not run, and it should sure as heck not evaporate. Just a small amount smeared on each side of breech block and dots inside of slide rails should be enough for a shooter.

Any comments/ideas?

rhuff · 02-20-2014, 03:26 PM

I have been using TW25b grease on the areas where the toggle train interfaces with the upper receiver. It is a bit heavier than an oil, and it stays put. I have been using this on all of my shooter handguns for a number of years with no complaints. New Sig handguns come with a tube of it in the box. Other gun companies may also, I don't know. I, personally, don't think that oil alone is enough of a wear preventive/lubricant for those areas. YMMV

Sergio Natali · 02-21-2014, 07:30 AM

On all the guns that I use at the range (1911 and Glock) I use a little bit of "Tetra" gun grease, sometimes I use one drop of "Ballistol" or Wilson Combat "Ultima Lube" oil.
When I've finished to clean my guns properly I give them a final touch with a silicone-cloth or with some cloth with a bit of "Finsuper" teflon oil.

In many years never had any problem.

02-20-2014, 06:43 AM	#1
stressed User Join Date: Feb 2014 Posts: 197 Thanks: 41 Thanked 43 Times in 30 Posts	SPEC 308 in Luger For those not familiar SPEC 308 is the copper paste lube used by Glock from the factory that comes on their new pistols. Now on a shooter luger, I like to keep them on the dryer side. I'll apply oil to the sides of breech block and rails, leaving a small film - but not wiped off like the rest of the gun. Action glides like butter when cycled manually. I notice after a day, I'll take the gun down and it will be dry, as if the oil evaporated. And this will be without firing as well. I was thinking for the sides of breech block and rails, you could use Glock's SPEC 308 as it will not run, and it should sure as heck not evaporate. Just a small amount smeared on each side of breech block and dots inside of slide rails should be enough for a shooter. Any comments/ideas? __________________ Looking for any Mauser S/42 #89 parts

02-21-2014, 07:30 AM	#3
Sergio Natali User Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Somewhere in Northern Italy Posts: 2,646 Thanks: 1,082 Thanked 1,783 Times in 1,007 Posts	On all the guns that I use at the range (1911 and Glock) I use a little bit of "Tetra" gun grease, sometimes I use one drop of "Ballistol" or Wilson Combat "Ultima Lube" oil. When I've finished to clean my guns properly I give them a final touch with a silicone-cloth or with some cloth with a bit of "Finsuper" teflon oil. In many years never had any problem. __________________ "Originality can't be restored and should be at the top of any collector's priority list.

02-20-2014, 03:26 PM	#2
rhuff Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Az. Posts: 2,291 Thanks: 2,709 Thanked 972 Times in 717 Posts	I have been using TW25b grease on the areas where the toggle train interfaces with the upper receiver. It is a bit heavier than an oil, and it stays put. I have been using this on all of my shooter handguns for a number of years with no complaints. New Sig handguns come with a tube of it in the box. Other gun companies may also, I don't know. I, personally, don't think that oil alone is enough of a wear preventive/lubricant for those areas. YMMV