cleaning dirty holsters and how

Rob · 04-19-2002, 07:27 PM

good evening, fellow luger guys and gals , how does one clean dirty holsters without damaging them , before we use pecards, please post a reply, many thanks rob

tom · 04-19-2002, 07:50 PM

Rob,

See the tech info section; much a do about holsters and leather.

Tom

04-19-2002, 09:30 PM

It depends on the dirt. There are things that are soluble in organic solvents and things that are soluble in polar solvents. Some holsters LOOK dirty but actually have surface imperfections including cracking or roughness that can not be cleaned off. If there is a greyish cast to the dirt, it might actually be mold and won't clean off with normal cleaners. The pH-balanced Lexol Cleaner, if used carefully, can be helpful but don't ever rub the surface to clean it. Luger holsters have a fine and thin surface that is easily damaged by cleaning so must be dabbed using cotton balls or soft cloth.

If the Lexol cleaner/water technique, using dabbing rather than circ motion as Lex recommends, does not visibly clean the surface, it is best to let the holster alone. It is amazingly difficult to clean a holster unless the dirt is entirely on the surface. Because leather is very porous, the dirt is usually somewhat embedded into the leather.

Pecards would not clean the leather--how did that concept come up? It is a waterproofing substance.

Good luck. Find out what kind of dirt there is--that will help id a cleaning method.

Dave

Marvin · 04-20-2002, 08:47 AM

Rob,

Cleaning a holster can be very "touchy", and must be done carefully. some folks say that a holster should never be touched from the way ti comes, others say to use this product or that product. There have been articles that mueseum says this is the correct procedure and another museum saus something differrent. To be totally honest, I don't know who is correct!

As far as cleaning the holster, I use a very soft brush to remove any surface dirt and then follow up with Lexol. The Lexol does tend to remove some dirt from the surface. I ONLY use one light application of the Lexol and when it dries, I very lightly buff the surface. Then I put a 1/4" dia roll of bubble wrap in the belt loops and a suff soem bubble wrap into the holster. This is then placed in a box, in a humidity controlled vault. One of the worst things for a holster is sunlight and high humidity.

Other may disagree with my procedure, but it has worked for me for over 25 years with good results. I do not recommend the use of chemical cleaning agents, saddle soap, neatsfoot oil, mink oil, shoe polish, or anything other than Lexol or Pecards. When either of these tow are used, they must be used SPARINGLY!!!!!!

Marvin

04-20-2002, 01:19 PM

Excellent comments, Marvin. Two things I will add. First, museums don't actually have procedures, conservators do. That helps explain some of the variation in advice and dispel some popular "gun show myths". Some conservators do not specialize in preserving organic materials such as leather, paper and cloth. They may have been trained prior to 1990 when treatments to leather were chemical in nature. The experience of drying and cracking of leather book bindings (due to "leather dressing") is one of the anecdotes I've heard that signals the end of the use of liquid treatments in the 1990s.

Respectable museums do not endorse nor have policies regarding leather treatment. That is why they hire conservators. It is the conservator who selects and implements conservation methods. Those conservators often read about methods in society publications. Although a lot has been written about paper conservation, leather is a very neglected topic of research. It is extremely difficult to conserve but a lot of progress is being made.

The second point I want to make is that many collectors seem not to understand the concept of "sparingly". More is better to many of them. When I see Pecards on a holster, it is often as thick as frosting on a cake. Regardless, it is sticky which retains dirt and darkens the leather. As a petroleum-based substance, it can dissolve leather fibers over time. It imparts a dull shine but has no preservation benefits of which I am aware.

Be very cautious in using any substance on your valuable collectibles.

Enjoy the comments.

dm

Marvin · 04-20-2002, 03:19 PM

dm,

Thanks for clearing up the Museum/conservator! I think we all use these two interchangeable and they are seperate entities. It is a shame we can't find out what the major leather conservators have to say about these items.

Yes, the work "sparingly" is not taken as it should be. When I say "Sparingly", I mean, just a little bit. I to have seen holster that have so much gook on them that the leather feel like mush! If a holster is in good condition, it only needs a light dusting and proper storage; no conditioner needed. I think this subject will continue to have a lot of controvery for a long time to come.

Marvin

04-19-2002, 07:27 PM	#1
Rob User Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: michigan Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	cleaning dirty holsters and how good evening, fellow luger guys and gals , how does one clean dirty holsters without damaging them , before we use pecards, please post a reply, many thanks rob

04-19-2002, 07:50 PM	#2
tom User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 269 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 2 Posts	Re: cleaning dirty holsters and how Rob, See the tech info section; much a do about holsters and leather. Tom

04-19-2002, 09:30 PM	#3
mlm Guest Posts: n/a	Re: cleaning dirty holsters and how It depends on the dirt. There are things that are soluble in organic solvents and things that are soluble in polar solvents. Some holsters LOOK dirty but actually have surface imperfections including cracking or roughness that can not be cleaned off. If there is a greyish cast to the dirt, it might actually be mold and won't clean off with normal cleaners. The pH-balanced Lexol Cleaner, if used carefully, can be helpful but don't ever rub the surface to clean it. Luger holsters have a fine and thin surface that is easily damaged by cleaning so must be dabbed using cotton balls or soft cloth. If the Lexol cleaner/water technique, using dabbing rather than circ motion as Lex recommends, does not visibly clean the surface, it is best to let the holster alone. It is amazingly difficult to clean a holster unless the dirt is entirely on the surface. Because leather is very porous, the dirt is usually somewhat embedded into the leather. Pecards would not clean the leather--how did that concept come up? It is a waterproofing substance. Good luck. Find out what kind of dirt there is--that will help id a cleaning method. Dave

04-20-2002, 08:47 AM	#4
Marvin User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Upstate S.C. Posts: 1,132 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: cleaning dirty holsters and how Rob, Cleaning a holster can be very "touchy", and must be done carefully. some folks say that a holster should never be touched from the way ti comes, others say to use this product or that product. There have been articles that mueseum says this is the correct procedure and another museum saus something differrent. To be totally honest, I don't know who is correct! As far as cleaning the holster, I use a very soft brush to remove any surface dirt and then follow up with Lexol. The Lexol does tend to remove some dirt from the surface. I ONLY use one light application of the Lexol and when it dries, I very lightly buff the surface. Then I put a 1/4" dia roll of bubble wrap in the belt loops and a suff soem bubble wrap into the holster. This is then placed in a box, in a humidity controlled vault. One of the worst things for a holster is sunlight and high humidity. Other may disagree with my procedure, but it has worked for me for over 25 years with good results. I do not recommend the use of chemical cleaning agents, saddle soap, neatsfoot oil, mink oil, shoe polish, or anything other than Lexol or Pecards. When either of these tow are used, they must be used SPARINGLY!!!!!! Marvin

04-20-2002, 01:19 PM	#5
mlm Guest Posts: n/a	Re: cleaning dirty holsters and how Excellent comments, Marvin. Two things I will add. First, museums don't actually have procedures, conservators do. That helps explain some of the variation in advice and dispel some popular "gun show myths". Some conservators do not specialize in preserving organic materials such as leather, paper and cloth. They may have been trained prior to 1990 when treatments to leather were chemical in nature. The experience of drying and cracking of leather book bindings (due to "leather dressing") is one of the anecdotes I've heard that signals the end of the use of liquid treatments in the 1990s. Respectable museums do not endorse nor have policies regarding leather treatment. That is why they hire conservators. It is the conservator who selects and implements conservation methods. Those conservators often read about methods in society publications. Although a lot has been written about paper conservation, leather is a very neglected topic of research. It is extremely difficult to conserve but a lot of progress is being made. The second point I want to make is that many collectors seem not to understand the concept of "sparingly". More is better to many of them. When I see Pecards on a holster, it is often as thick as frosting on a cake. Regardless, it is sticky which retains dirt and darkens the leather. As a petroleum-based substance, it can dissolve leather fibers over time. It imparts a dull shine but has no preservation benefits of which I am aware. Be very cautious in using any substance on your valuable collectibles. Enjoy the comments. dm

04-20-2002, 03:19 PM	#6
Marvin User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Upstate S.C. Posts: 1,132 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: cleaning dirty holsters and how dm, Thanks for clearing up the Museum/conservator! I think we all use these two interchangeable and they are seperate entities. It is a shame we can't find out what the major leather conservators have to say about these items. Yes, the work "sparingly" is not taken as it should be. When I say "Sparingly", I mean, just a little bit. I to have seen holster that have so much gook on them that the leather feel like mush! If a holster is in good condition, it only needs a light dusting and proper storage; no conditioner needed. I think this subject will continue to have a lot of controvery for a long time to come. Marvin