1938 S/42 Luger loose grip question

[SDguy]

Although the screw is tightened, The left grip on my S/42 is a little loose at the top. Is there a fix someone would suggest. The grips are original and matching to pistol.

[Michigan Gunner]

The grip can be shimmed. BUT, I would only do it on a shooter grade luger. Any stress on the old wood can cause it to crack. The left grip tends to crack in the upper right hand corner. A small piece of the grip can break off there. I have heard this called the "Magic Chip" since it happens so often.

Others here may know more.

Lock and Load

[tharpo]

Try cutting off a little piece of rubber band and putting it where the frame and the wood meet. It is usually the right grip that is loose for me.

[ithacaartist]

A luger grip is generally held down on the frame by the screw at the bottom and to the extent it tucks in at the top. The grip scale is retained laterally by the contours routed into its back side, which snuggle into the openings on the frame beneath.

If the grip shucks around, it's because it's shrunk a bit and there's room for it to move before the protruding areas on the back encounter the areas on the frame that limit its travel. Shooting the gun applies forces that press the grip forward with each shot. This can compress the wood, which i turn allows lateral play/looseness. Artfully adding a sliver of wood or a bead of clear epoxy to fill the gap is the best approach, IMHO.

The "million dollar chip" results when the left grip scale is able to be pressed far enough forward that the wood behind the safety lever is pushed against the lever's shaft with each shot. It is also my opinion that his is far more often the cause of the chip than the touted careless removal of that grip panel. So make certain your left grip is good and snug, and that there's a whisker of clearance between it and the rear of the safety lever's shaft.

[Stu]

I use a small strip of electrical tape over the top edge of the grip to firm up a loose grip. Many variations on the theme to achieve the same end.

[Michigan Gunner]

Another thing that can be tried is to steam the grip. This will swell the grain and give it a better fit.

Lock and Load!

[Proofed]

The explanation by ithacaartist is the best one I've heard. I don't think as many grips are chipped by improper removal than the removal of an already cracked grip makes it appear that way. I think the "million dollar chip" is more the result of a slightly loose grip being jammed against the safety lever and cracked by firing the weapon.

[4 Scale]

This topic has been dealt with extensively in past threads, do a search. The basic answer is well explained in post #4 by ithacaartist - add flexible/compressible material. The wood has shrunk; wood is hydroscopic and absorbs or sheds moisture depending on its environment.

I purchased a small sheet of 1/32 nitrile rubber years ago for shimming grips and it works perfectly.

While adding moisture via steam or other methods might swell the wood and thereby tighten fit, such a fix will likely be temporary. And introduction of moisture creates its own issues.

[spangy]

Originally Posted by 4 Scale

While adding moisture via steam or other methods might swell the wood and thereby tighten fit, such a fix will likely be temporary. And introduction of moisture creates its own issues.

100% AGREE and the use of steam in an aggressive manner may well cause cracking on its own ... I would not advise it unless under controlled conditions.

I soak my loose grips in warmed walnut oil to replenish the wood naturally.

[4 Scale]

My own research on preserving Luger grips indicates strongly against the addition of hardening oils, which include 'nut'' oils like linseed and walnut oil. For wood objects that will be subject to hard use, there is, or was, a case to be made that hardening surface treatments at the start of service life help protect. However when the objective becomes preservation, hardening oils should be avoided.

This is long but pretty good. https://www.si.edu/mci/english/learn.../coatings.html An excerpt:

"Another instance of a traditional material being inappropriate for finish care is linseed oil or other drying oils. Oils crosslink with age, which means that they are not easily removed, and under some circumstances may darken considerably. A finish undergoing a chemical reaction which turns it very dark and makes it difficult to remove, is a problem indeed."

Also see https://www.antiquetrader.com/furnit...th-linseed-oil

Luger grips are made of hardwood which is a very tough material. That grips can survive repeated hardening oil treatment or even more damaging substances does not mean those those substances are beneficial.

[Major Tom]

I have used small O-rings under the screw head and snugged the screw down; works good for me.

[Michigan Gunner]

I tried using the "O" Ring on my 1937 DWM Shooter. I worked great!

Lock and Load!

[WWII Luger]

lots of good ideas i here. I will have to remember them if my grips become loose

[Michigan Gunner]

I read that most Lugers (Maybe All?) came with a leather washer under the grip screw. I made one from leather and oiled it. I place it under the grip screw of my 1916 DWM. That took all the looseness out of the grip. It worked as well as a rubber washer did.

Mike

[gunbugs]

No Lugers left the factory with leather, or any other washers under the screws.

[4 Scale]

While leather meets the compressibility criteria mentioned above, it can foster rust propagation over time (knowledgable collectors advise do not store pistols in leather holsters). Compounds like rubber et al do not foster rust.

[Michigan Gunner]

Good Point. It's on my shooter luger and will be replaced with a synthetic washer soon. It's soaked in oil so OK for now.

Lock and Load!