P.08 safety adj. 101

[G.T.]

Hi to all! This little bit of instruction is for the shade tree Luger mechanic and is probably not the correct proceedure for the purest?
But, I know, some of you guys are tryng to put together, or trying to revise, shooter Lugers. This thread is for you!
Now don't use this method for collectible all matching guns? You shouldn't have to, as this was already addressed at the factory when initially assembled and it is another reason small parts are numbered. But if you need to install a NOS or a take off part, this is again, for you.
Now that we're past all the disclaimer BS, lets address the problem, which is a super tight safety? The criteria being you can't work the safety without changing your hold or grip on the pistol. In fact, it is tough to work the lever when you have it in hand, not even trying to shoot it, or render it safe?
The revision for this problem can be addressed in two stages. First, you need to dissamble the safety and remove the safety bar.
Then, reassemble the safety lever and retaining pin WITHOUT the safety bar. The lever is, in itself, a spring. So you can take the lever back out, or even adjust it on the gun with the correct tools. But, you need to end up with the lever moving freely, and positively indexing the detents, in both directions. At this point re-install the safety bar and check for function. If still tight, you need to come through the other side of the frame, and with a plastic or wood dowel and a small hammer, you need to hit the junction of the safety lever and safety bar which will adjust the safety bar and lever outwards from the frame. Check it every time, and don't overdo it. A little bit of force goes along way towards improvement and / or cure of the issue... Let me know if this helps, I only discovered this technique a few weeks ago... Best to all, til.....lat'r.....GT...
BTW, all my adjustments, (bending or forming) are done with plastic or wood impliments, when super stubbron, aluminum or brass works well... never steel tool without jaw face protection!

[Edward Tinker]

great information GT - what is done when the safety flops around like a fish? (seriously)

[G.T.]

Hi Ed, you can actually bend (ever so slightly) the top part of the safety lever, (probably in a soft jaw vice) and get the correct tension you desire? Sometimes, a replacement lever is required if it seems non-compatible with the frame?.. (too loose in the pivot) A custom retaining pin might also help tighten up the lever. Then go to step two, it could be, again, billy goat stiff just from being in or out too far at the lever/bar juncture?.. Best, til....lat'r....GT

[MikeP]

I have an excellent '41 BYF that shows little use.
The safety lever is properly tensioned.
The safety sear wobbles laterally in its slot.
With the safety engaged it is possible to fool around with the trigger and actually trip the sear.
I don't fire it much and don't worry about it.
Just an anomaly that passed inspection. Like the slot is too wide.
Never handled another Luger that was like this.

[G.T.]

Hi Mike, I have not seen this before? I wonder if the sear bar is under tollerance or if it is indeed the slot? Drop me a note with your address and I'll send you an original as new safety bar the you can sue as a guage for both the bar and the slot? My email address is:
[email protected]
Best to you, til....lat'r.....GT

[1SGGetch]

GT,

I quoted this hope you dont mind, questions though..

What are we actually adjusting in the lever itself?
What are the proper tools to initially adjust this lever?
Is there a risk to breaking numbered parts?

Finally any way we can see this in pictures?

Seems this is a common issue

Getch

[G.T.]

Hi 1SGGetch, unfortunatly, there is always a parts break risk when working on a Luger. And it goes up in seriousness as the collectability and condition of the gun goes up! Some are one shot repairs and some issues are better off left alone in the first place. The adjustment of the safety lever tension is usually adjusted when the Luger is initially assembled, so the chance of this proceedure being needed on a nice all matching unit is rare? Worn out guns and miss matched guns are a whole nother can of worms.
On the (shadetree) type of repair I have posted on the forum, It is a quick and easy way to make a difference, either tight or loose, of the safety bar, until it suites the shooters preference. The safety lever is, for the exposed length, a spring, but it is heavely influenced by the position of the safety bar where the two parts intersect. By using a piece of plastic, or hardwood dowel, and adjusting this intersection, you can increase or decrease of the drag on the lever and thus change the tension on the thumb area as well. The advantage of this method is that the lever is pinned in place so it can be held securely when making the adjustment. The second advantage is you can gauge and test as you go, because all is assembled and ready to go once the desired tension is reached.. One caveat is you need not strike it very hard! And check as you go... In the end, all you are doing is moving the lowest part of the lever in or out as the gun holds everything in place for you.... Best of Luck, til....lat'r....GT...

[1SGGetch]

G.T.

Thanks for the explanation, when I get around to doing some strawing on this refinished gun I will see if I care to dare to make a difference in the feel of the safety.

Getch