Help identifying an American Eagle luger

flyingcowofdoom · 06-22-2009, 03:05 PM

Hello. I recently acquired an antique Luger, and I was wondering if someone could help me learn a little more about it.

It is chambered in .30, has a grip safety, an American Eagle stamp, the word "Germany" stamped on the front of the barrel, and as far as I can tell all the parts have matching serial numbers.

It seems to be in very good condition. I field stripped it and the spring in the grip seems to be fine. Dry firing sounds like it's functioning properly, although I was reluctant to pull the trigger more than once for fear of damaging the pin. I have one magazine that is also in pretty good condition.

Here are some pictures to assist with identifying it. I can take better pictures or answer further questions that might help. Thanks a lot!

More pictures are at: http://www.flyingcowofdoom.com/luger/

--FCOD

Ron Wood · 06-22-2009, 03:25 PM

"I was reluctant to pull the trigger more than once for fear of damaging the pin"....wise decision! You have a Model 1900 American Eagle Luger. The GERMANY marking indicates that it was for commercial sale and not one of the pieces tested by the U.S. Army. What is the serial number? The last two digits on the right end of the takedown lever indicates a relatively early example.

flyingcowofdoom · 06-22-2009, 03:39 PM

The last two digits are 48, as can be seen in the picture. I will get the first two digits when I come home from work this evening. I do remember that it was four digits, perhaps 7X48.

So this was manufactured in 1900? Pretty cool. I would never want to sell it because it's a family heirloom, but how would I go about determining it's worth?

--FCOD

Edward Tinker · 06-22-2009, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyingcowofdoom

...
So this was manufactured in 1900? Pretty cool. I would never want to sell it because it's a family heirloom, but how would I go about determining it's worth?

--FCOD

It is a "model" 1900, so not made then, but close to that time frame... The next model was the 1906, so....

Value for one in this condition is pro bably $1400-$1800...

Ed

FNorm · 06-22-2009, 04:54 PM

I recently purchased a mint 1920 for $1000. Almost the same pistol except for the grip safety, and the year.

Check here for some price ideas. Now these are Retail:

http://www.simpsonltd.com/index.php?...fdfdbebfdb1f95

Yes, that firing pin doesn't not like to dry fire. Either get a snap cap, or... as you close the breech, as the bolt is about 3 -8 inch from closed you'll feel a slight catch. At that point squeeze the trigger and the breech will close without cocking the pistol.

FN

flyingcowofdoom · 06-22-2009, 05:00 PM

Cool. I was unable to find anywhere to buy .30 snap caps, do you know of a place?

--FCOD

flyingcowofdoom · 06-22-2009, 08:41 PM

Ok, the serial number is 8648.

Is there a mechanism that is supposed to lock the action open if the magazine is empty? I don't seem to be able to get the action to stay locked open.

--FCOD

Ron Wood · 06-22-2009, 10:02 PM

Yes, there is a device to hold the toggle open on an empty magazine (see photo). If the toggle does not lock back it could be due to a missing or worn holdopen device. More likely it is a weak magazine spring that does not allow the magazine follower button to push the holdopen up far enough to activate.

P.S. Thank you for the serial number. It is fairly early as Model 1900 serial numbers run into the 20,000 range.
P.P.S. A flying cow of doom is a pretty scary concept! Pidgeon poop is one thing but flying cows...good lord!

FNorm · 06-22-2009, 10:21 PM

There is a hold open device, actuated by the side button on the magazine. It's a little spring along the inside of the right slide frame. This came around somewhere about 1908, I think? These were not mandated for military until 1913. It appears that you do not have the stock lug either. Another thing that happened in 1913. You do have the dished toggles, later models had flat toggles.

As for snap caps, I used the brass of an expended round. Don't have any extra laying around right now.

Ron Wood · 06-22-2009, 10:33 PM

FNorm,
The hold open device was a feature of Luger from the beginning. It was eliminated for the 1908 army contract, but quickly reinstated in 1913 when it was realized that it was false economy to eliminate it as it served a very useful function. Except for the early Navy Lugers, carbines and some prototype examples, the stock lug also did not appear until 1913 (it was another thing eliminated for the 1908 army contract).

Your solution for snap caps seems to be the only option as 9mm versions abound but I have not been able to locate commercially available 7.65mm Luger snap caps.

FNorm · 06-22-2009, 11:12 PM

Thank you , Ron. I was looking for the reference, but couldn't find it. Especially for commercial.

We must have sent 'send' about the same time.

FN

Ron Wood · 06-23-2009, 01:15 AM

I reckon so pardner. Although I usually come in second on the draw.

flyingcowofdoom · 06-23-2009, 09:45 AM

I see. I will have to examine the pistol tonight to see why the hold open isn't actuating. What is the proper method for closing the action if the hold open is working? Remove the empty magazine, then pull the toggles slightly? (I'm working only from a knowledge of how modern semi-automatic pistols function). I assume there is no equivalent to a slide stop lever?

Do you guys have any tips for cleaning the pistol? Is there anything I should avoid doing to preserve it's value? I'd love to get it cleaned up as much as possible, but I don't want to reduce it's worth.

Thanks again for all the great information!

--FCOD

FNorm · 06-23-2009, 05:23 PM

Yes. Take the mag out and pull back slightly. Remember the trigger/de-cocking tip. As for cleaning, I use the same stuff I use on my rifles. Butch's Bore Shine and gun oil. But I think any modern stuff will work. Hoppe's is good. Careful not to get any on the grips. I would avoid some of the VERY aggressive cleaners on the market. I have an M1 barrel that is now a tomato stake from that stuff.

FN

flyingcowofdoom · 06-23-2009, 05:25 PM

Yeah I use Hoppes on my Glock and revolvers. Good stuff! Is there anything I should be doing to help preserve the grips?

Thanks again!

--FCOD

FNorm · 06-23-2009, 06:20 PM

There's a bunch of good videos on this site and at: http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/

on how to disassemble. Be VERY careful with the grips. There's a tab on them that fits up and under the frame. Easy to break off.

06-22-2009, 03:05 PM	#1
flyingcowofdoom User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 6 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Help identifying an American Eagle luger Hello. I recently acquired an antique Luger, and I was wondering if someone could help me learn a little more about it. It is chambered in .30, has a grip safety, an American Eagle stamp, the word "Germany" stamped on the front of the barrel, and as far as I can tell all the parts have matching serial numbers. It seems to be in very good condition. I field stripped it and the spring in the grip seems to be fine. Dry firing sounds like it's functioning properly, although I was reluctant to pull the trigger more than once for fear of damaging the pin. I have one magazine that is also in pretty good condition. Here are some pictures to assist with identifying it. I can take better pictures or answer further questions that might help. Thanks a lot! More pictures are at: http://www.flyingcowofdoom.com/luger/ --FCOD

06-22-2009, 03:25 PM	#2
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,022 Thanks: 1,090 Thanked 5,178 Times in 1,703 Posts	"I was reluctant to pull the trigger more than once for fear of damaging the pin"....wise decision! You have a Model 1900 American Eagle Luger. The GERMANY marking indicates that it was for commercial sale and not one of the pieces tested by the U.S. Army. What is the serial number? The last two digits on the right end of the takedown lever indicates a relatively early example. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

06-22-2009, 10:02 PM	#8
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,022 Thanks: 1,090 Thanked 5,178 Times in 1,703 Posts	Yes, there is a device to hold the toggle open on an empty magazine (see photo). If the toggle does not lock back it could be due to a missing or worn holdopen device. More likely it is a weak magazine spring that does not allow the magazine follower button to push the holdopen up far enough to activate. P.S. Thank you for the serial number. It is fairly early as Model 1900 serial numbers run into the 20,000 range. P.P.S. A flying cow of doom is a pretty scary concept! Pidgeon poop is one thing but flying cows...good lord! Attached Images __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

06-22-2009, 10:33 PM	#10
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,022 Thanks: 1,090 Thanked 5,178 Times in 1,703 Posts	FNorm, The hold open device was a feature of Luger from the beginning. It was eliminated for the 1908 army contract, but quickly reinstated in 1913 when it was realized that it was false economy to eliminate it as it served a very useful function. Except for the early Navy Lugers, carbines and some prototype examples, the stock lug also did not appear until 1913 (it was another thing eliminated for the 1908 army contract). Your solution for snap caps seems to be the only option as 9mm versions abound but I have not been able to locate commercially available 7.65mm Luger snap caps. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

06-23-2009, 01:15 AM	#12
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,022 Thanks: 1,090 Thanked 5,178 Times in 1,703 Posts	I reckon so pardner. Although I usually come in second on the draw. __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

06-22-2009, 03:39 PM	#3
flyingcowofdoom User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 6 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	The last two digits are 48, as can be seen in the picture. I will get the first two digits when I come home from work this evening. I do remember that it was four digits, perhaps 7X48. So this was manufactured in 1900? Pretty cool. I would never want to sell it because it's a family heirloom, but how would I go about determining it's worth? --FCOD

06-22-2009, 04:54 PM	#5
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	I recently purchased a mint 1920 for $1000. Almost the same pistol except for the grip safety, and the year. Check here for some price ideas. Now these are Retail: http://www.simpsonltd.com/index.php?...fdfdbebfdb1f95 Yes, that firing pin doesn't not like to dry fire. Either get a snap cap, or... as you close the breech, as the bolt is about 3 -8 inch from closed you'll feel a slight catch. At that point squeeze the trigger and the breech will close without cocking the pistol. FN

06-22-2009, 05:00 PM	#6
flyingcowofdoom User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 6 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Cool. I was unable to find anywhere to buy .30 snap caps, do you know of a place? --FCOD

06-22-2009, 08:41 PM	#7
flyingcowofdoom User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 6 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ok, the serial number is 8648. Is there a mechanism that is supposed to lock the action open if the magazine is empty? I don't seem to be able to get the action to stay locked open. --FCOD

06-22-2009, 10:21 PM	#9
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	There is a hold open device, actuated by the side button on the magazine. It's a little spring along the inside of the right slide frame. This came around somewhere about 1908, I think? These were not mandated for military until 1913. It appears that you do not have the stock lug either. Another thing that happened in 1913. You do have the dished toggles, later models had flat toggles. As for snap caps, I used the brass of an expended round. Don't have any extra laying around right now.

06-22-2009, 11:12 PM	#11
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	Thank you , Ron. I was looking for the reference, but couldn't find it. Especially for commercial. We must have sent 'send' about the same time. FN

06-23-2009, 09:45 AM	#13
flyingcowofdoom User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 6 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I see. I will have to examine the pistol tonight to see why the hold open isn't actuating. What is the proper method for closing the action if the hold open is working? Remove the empty magazine, then pull the toggles slightly? (I'm working only from a knowledge of how modern semi-automatic pistols function). I assume there is no equivalent to a slide stop lever? Do you guys have any tips for cleaning the pistol? Is there anything I should avoid doing to preserve it's value? I'd love to get it cleaned up as much as possible, but I don't want to reduce it's worth. Thanks again for all the great information! --FCOD

06-23-2009, 05:23 PM	#14
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	Yes. Take the mag out and pull back slightly. Remember the trigger/de-cocking tip. As for cleaning, I use the same stuff I use on my rifles. Butch's Bore Shine and gun oil. But I think any modern stuff will work. Hoppe's is good. Careful not to get any on the grips. I would avoid some of the VERY aggressive cleaners on the market. I have an M1 barrel that is now a tomato stake from that stuff. FN

06-23-2009, 05:25 PM	#15
flyingcowofdoom User Join Date: Jun 2009 Posts: 6 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Yeah I use Hoppes on my Glock and revolvers. Good stuff! Is there anything I should be doing to help preserve the grips? Thanks again! --FCOD

06-23-2009, 06:20 PM	#16
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	There's a bunch of good videos on this site and at: http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/ on how to disassemble. Be VERY careful with the grips. There's a tab on them that fits up and under the frame. Easy to break off.