New to me Interarms Parabellum

[Tango3]

Newbie to the Parabellum here. Been a 1911 guy all my life so this is a bit different, to be sure. I've been lurking around the forum, reading up on everything I could. Fascinating weapons!

I was curious if one of you could tell me anything about my Parabellum number 11.00.2553.

Thanks,
Eric

[Eugen]

Eric, welcome to the forum and congrats on your new baby! I would suggest you add several photos of your Luger; they will garner more informative responses. Do you have the original box and accessories?

After a range trip give us a report on your experience.

[lfid]

Eric,
you may want to get a copy of :
http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_in...ducts_id=18587
enjoy that new toy !
Bill

[Tango3]

Bill
That's definitely a book I'll order. Thanks for the heads up!

Don
I'll include some pictures later today.
The pistol did come in it' box (has same serial number on the side) with what I understand to be most of the accessories. It's missing the little colored tag and the target.
Thank you for the welcome!
Eric

[mrerick]

The authors of "The Parabellum is Back" also frequent this website.

You have an earlier Mauser Parabellum pistol. Likely made during 1973 on one of the earlier production runs.

These are very well made. Do you have box and accessories? Any specific questions?

Marc

[rhuff]

Welcome to the forum and congrats on owning a Mauser Parabellum. They are very nice handguns and a real hoot to shoot. Sounds like yours is pretty much a complete package.

[DonVoigt]

The OP wrote:
"The pistol did come in it' box (has same serial number on the side) with what I understand to be most of the accessories. It's missing the little colored tag and the target."

Good to have some of the "accessories", but the missing tag and target will hurt to a purist as it is
"incomplete". Most who collect these later Mausers want them new, unfired, and complete with all the little things in their original box.

These are not particularly valuable(compared to an original), and some here like them for shooting.

If shooting is your desire, you have a good one there.

[Ben M.]

serial numbers tell it to be 9m/m

[Tango3]

Thanks all: Ben, Don, rhuff, Marc.
Don, I bought this for shooting so while having all the accessories would still be nice, I figured that my use of it was going to hurt the collectability side of things.
As to the weapon itself, everything was pristine except the grip screws which had the slots slightly damaged. I'll replace those.

One thing I haven't seen that I could use direction on is lubrication. All my pistols are, up to this point, 1911s and I'm real familiar with their key lub areas and amounts. But a Parabellum? Yes, I figure that the rails need it, just like the 1911s, but what else and how much? I haven't read anything about this and have found only one YouTube vid that showed this. On this vid oil was applied liberally to just about every piece of metal in and on the weapon with special emphasis on all pins. What made me a little unsure of this was that the owner kept dry firing his weapon constantly which seems to be a large no-no with the Parabellum. Makes me sort of question his lub suggestions. So suggestions are welcomed, gents.

I'm also new to blued pistols, of which my Parabellum is one. All my 1911s have other finishes...IonBond, stainless steel, Duty Treatment (Dan Wesson finish option), Hard Chrome, and a couple with the surface applied paint. Some of these are fussy with solvents or lubricants or both. For instance, Duty Treatment gets permanently blotchy with certain CLPs and Renaissance Wax and the use of such substances means living with the look or a refinish. What are the do's/don'ts with a blued weapon?

I always field strip and clean my pistols after every shooting session and am assuming that that is the recommended procedure most Parabellum owners employ? Detail strip and clean/lub every 5000 rounds. Same with Parabellums?

Finally, this beauty seems to have a lot of springs. How often does one change them? I know the average number of rounds that I can run in my 1911s before I should consider a spring change. So I keep a detailed shooting journal on each and every one of my 1911s so as to know when I'm getting close to those round count points. I plan on doing this with my Parabellum of course, hence my previous question. Help please.

If any of you have important suggestions on items I haven't mentioned, please sing out! Something like...since my pistola is an Interarms Parabellum that has never been shot, is there a break in period? Should mags be pre loaded to pretension the mag springs?

Thanks,
Eric

[DonVoigt]

Lugers like oil, any good gun oil- thin not thick, no grease.

I'd clean and lube after each shooting session.

One of our members shoots his luger in competition, he will come along and give advice on a "lot" of shooting.

I doubt any of the rest of us would fire a luger 5000 rounds; I wouldn't- I have 6 I call shooters and the most any get shot is with one or two full 32 round drums in a session.

Springs should not require changing until you notice a change in ejection pattern or distance, again JMO. There are only 3 coil springs that do work, ejector, striker, mainspring.
The ejector is a flat spring and subject to fail as any leaf spring will - or not. Leaf springs on the mag catch and the sear bar not likely to fail. forgot the very small spring in the disconnector, they don't "fail" but may get stuck due to dirt/dried lube, just keep it lubricated.

Mags- just use them, they will be "stronger" than you are used to.

Maybe this will help, just remember the Luger was a military issue firearm for 60 years, so it is a robust system; being replaced for reasons of cost rather than performance, IMO.

[Tango3]

Don,
Great info and much thanks.

When I go to the range, I usually shoot 100-200 rounds with my 1911s, sometimes even shooting 300 or more, as the mood strikes. Getting an unfired, "young" for a Parabellum, Mauser, I planned on range trips mirroring my usual. It's not unusual for 1970 vintage 1911s to be rigorously fired so I assumed the same would be true with the Parabellum. Is this incorrect?

Eric

[kurusu]

Originally Posted by DonVoigt

Lugers like oil, any good gun oil- thin not thick, no grease.

I'd clean and lube after each shooting session.

One of our members shoots his luger in competition, he will come along and give advice on a "lot" of shooting.

I doubt any of the rest of us would fire a luger 5000 rounds; I wouldn't- I have 6 I call shooters and the most any get shot is with one or two full 32 round drums in a session.

Springs should not require changing until you notice a change in ejection pattern or distance, again JMO. There are only 3 coil springs that do work, ejector, striker, mainspring.
The ejector is a flat spring and subject to fail as any leaf spring will - or not. Leaf springs on the mag catch and the sear bar not likely to fail. forgot the very small spring in the disconnector, they don't "fail" but may get stuck due to dirt/dried lube, just keep it lubricated.

Mags- just use them, they will be "stronger" than you are used to.

Maybe this will help, just remember the Luger was a military issue firearm for 60 years, so it is a robust system; being replaced for reasons of cost rather than performance, IMO.

That might be me he's referring to.

I have not much to add but here goes. When I'm training for competition I keep them well lubed and clean on the outside, but only detail them from 500 to 500 rounds. Never go to a match with a squeaking clean pistol, generally I clean them thoroughly before the last training session where I shoot some 100 rounds.

My shooters have the original step chamber that was discontinued in favor of the modern 9 mm chambering in 1942. 500 rounds is more a less the limit for the old fashion chambering in between cleanings before it starts giving trouble.

Other useful advices:
Keep the striker chamber inside the breech-block clean and free of excess oil.

Always keep the front base of the ears well lubed.

Use molykote in the striker engagement to the sear bar.


About the recoil spring:

On a vintage Mauser there should be 21 coils on the spring, if original, sometimes in the USA those springs were snipped a few coils because of lightly charged ammo. In that case the spring should be replaced. But, I don't think there are any modern springs up to the standard and durability of the original ones.

Can't say anything about the post war Mauser, cause I don't know squat. Only saw one of them, in the box and unfired.



Afterthought:

Even though a Luger is quite safe for concealed carry, even more the 1906 pattern with grip safety. My advise be, never conceal carry a pistol you are not prepared to part with. If, perish the though, you ever need to use your concealed weapon, It will become "evidence" and you're most likely never to see it again.

[Tango3]

Mario,

Aha, they caught you! And you confess!

Seriously, thanks for this information and insights. It sure says a lot that about this weapon that as tightly built as it is, it can nicely handle quite a bit of shooting with the build up of crud and keep on keeping on. Well, l suppose it was built for war, after all!

Nuts 'n bolts suggestions on the care of a shooter that I'm so new to is much appreciated. This is what I need to know. By the way, with my 1911s magazines, I dismantle them after use and basically wipe the parts down and reassemble which is easy to do with those mags. Do I do this with Parabellum magazines? Do I just drive those small pins out and clean them the same way?

Yes, carrying the Parabellum or any of my high end 1911s is a risk if the worst happens and it has to be used defensively. This doesn't make me happy but I continue to do so. You see, I have an aversion to DA or DA/SA handguns since I've always shot the SA types exclusively and don't have to give thought to the "which kind of trigger is on the weapon I'm currently carrying" question. Also, my small hand with short thick fingers makes reaching the pivoting triggers employed by all common DA or DA/SA striker fired pistols and revolvers I've tried a no go unless, for instance, in the case of the SAA revolver, the cocking of the hammer pulls the trigger back and close to the rear of the trigger guard. All of my 1911s have custom short triggers installed so I can use them. The Parabellum's trigger is JUST reachable for me (and, yes, my first striker-fired weapon! Who'd a thunk?). I'm already not happy with the factory grips that came with it. The edges are like vertical cliffs with a plateau on top and I've contacted a Forum member who makes grips to fix this. They feel uncomfortable and by cutting down the cliff slope should increase my finger reach, too.

Eric

[kurusu]

On magazines:

Not all Luger magazines are made equal. The early models (wood bottom folded metal type) are a bit fragile and require some attention. I avoid use the ones I have. The extruded late models are quite sturdy and generally problem free.
The Mec-Gar magazines also work well, which I find surprising since the 1911 ones are kind of crappy. Just one caveat, the plastic base on the Mec-Gars is prone to break (happened to me during a match), had the bottom replaced by a wooden one (after locating the innards that had fallen out) and it gave no more trouble.

Never disassembled a Luger magazine, never needed to, for cleaning, I just lower the follower( using the side button), about one inch, and give it a good scrub (on the follower and inner walls) with an old toothbrush, spray the magazine with oil wipe out the excess and I'm good to go.

[mrerick]

Be careful of over cleaning things. After most range sessions, I wipe the gun down, run a boresnake through it, lightly oil it and spray it down with a preserving gun oil like RemOil.

After several hundred rounds, I'll disassemble it and do a more thorough cleaning.

I store my guns in silicone impregnated socks or bore-stores. Beware of actually getting some forms of silicone on the gun surfaces. Blued surfaces, including the salt blued finish on your Interarms Luger, are pretty resilient. Just don't leave fingerprints or moisture on them for long periods of time. Don't store guns in holsters.

It's not a good idea to dry fire a Luger. The area of the breech face where the firing pin protrudes is rather thin, and it's all that stops the firing pin when nothing is in the chamber. Look it over to be sure it's still nice and flat.

I do think that these Interarms Lugers are collectible, but in a different sense and class as compared to military Lugers or DWM / Mauser commercial Lugers. There were not that many made, and few remain pristine examples. They are very well made, and their high cost of manufacture ultimately lead to them being discontinued. The market simply could not bear the high price. Estimates for reviving Luger manufacture today run into the $5,000 range.

[Eugen]

Eric, if you are looking for a set of snap caps to be able to cycle and dry fire your Luger, I would recommend "B's" brand. Dumb name, but the best snap caps I have found...and I think I have owned all the brands out there in various calibers. They are not made of plastic (that I have had break), or have flaking coating on alum (that comes off in the gun) like some of the other popular brands commonly found everywhere. I got mine on Amazon.

[rhuff]

Eric,

If you are comfortable with care and cleaning of 1911s, then you should have no problems with your Luger. They are all machines.....although some are beautiful machines!!

I have a tendency to run all of my handguns fairly well lubed, and because I live in a warm climate, I do use more than just oil on the heavy friction areas(slide/frame, toggle/frame, etc.). I have been pleased with TW25b grease for a number of years now, including on subguns. I use a good quality gun oil on the less heavy friction areas like the toggle train junctions, etc.

I agree with Marc about not doing extensive breakdowns after every range trip. To me, it just isn't necessary. I do keep my guns clean and lubed, but not OCD about it.

I will suggest that if you are going to be shooting your Mauser that you purchase a few Mec-Gar aftermarket mags to use and save the originals. The original mags have a tendency to break the plastic bases when loaded fully. You don't want that to happen.....I assume.

Stick with std. velocity quality ammo in 115-124gr FMJRN, and avoid any +P,+P+, or NATO ammo. Enjoy.

[Eugen]

Originally Posted by rhuff

Eric,

I will suggest that if you are going to be shooting your Mauser that you purchase a few Mec-Gar aftermarket mags to use and save the originals. The original mags have a tendency to break the plastic bases when loaded fully. You don't want that to happen.....I assume.

I agree with rhuff. I also have found the Meg-Gar P.08 mags are sold at https://www.cdnnsports.com on specials that they run frequently for $19. I picked up several and haven't found them priced lower.

[Tango3]

Originally Posted by Eugen

I agree with rhuff. I also have found the Meg-Gar P.08 mags are sold at https://www.cdnnsports.com on specials that they run frequently for $19. I picked up several and haven't found them priced lower.

Eugen,
I got lucky and found CDNN Sports and bought 2 of 'em along with the one Mec-gar at $29 I had previously purchased. When I compared them, they were identical except the CDNNs didn't have "Mec-gar"or "Made in Italy" stamped on it. Sounds like I made a good choice.

Thanks,
Eric

[Tango3]

Originally Posted by mrerick

Be careful of over cleaning things. After most range sessions, I wipe the gun down, run a boresnake through it, lightly oil it and spray it down with a preserving gun oil like RemOil.

After several hundred rounds, I'll disassemble it and do a more thorough cleaning.

I store my guns in silicone impregnated socks or bore-stores. Beware of actually getting some forms of silicone on the gun surfaces. Blued surfaces, including the salt blued finish on your Interarms Luger, are pretty resilient. Just don't leave fingerprints or moisture on them for long periods of time. Don't store guns in holsters.

It's not a good idea to dry fire a Luger. The area of the breech face where the firing pin protrudes is rather thin, and it's all that stops the firing pin when nothing is in the chamber. Look it over to be sure it's still nice and flat.

I do think that these Interarms Lugers are collectible, but in a different sense and class as compared to military Lugers or DWM / Mauser commercial Lugers. There were not that many made, and few remain pristine examples. They are very well made, and their high cost of manufacture ultimately lead to them being discontinued. The market simply could not bear the high price. Estimates for reviving Luger manufacture today run into the $5,000 range.

Marc
What, specifically, is the danger (danger is probably too strong a word) of over-cleaning the weapon? I ask 'cause I know I'm OCD in cleaning (albeit carefully) my 11s but that hasn't been a problem with them.

+ on silicon socks. I use them on all my 11s and already have the Parabellum wrapped in its own. I wipe my guns down before putting them away, however, the non-blued finishes on them make fingerprints a non worry. I'll make sure to take care of that with this weapon. I never store my 11s in holsters and that'll even be easier with the Parabellum since it won't possibly fit in any I own. I conceal carry my 11s but have no plans to do so with the Parabellum. This is the very first handgun I own that violates a rule I have that it must have the capability for CC. Oh well, my rule to break!

++ on no dry firing! Thanks for enlightening me on why, though. Much different than the firing pin set up on large caliber 1911s. I have learned how to safely de-**** the P so as not to damage it.

I must say that I'm VERY impressed with the robust and precise construction of this class of weapons. I can see why these are not currently produced since their price would place them high in the custom 1911 market!

Thanks,
Eric