Problem solved: main spring replacement made easy !

[DWMMAUSERERFURT]

So while I was fine tuning some reproduction grips on my surplus Luger, it just so happened that I found some needle nose pliers around and played with it.
Before I knew it, I had the main spring out and back in.
You even have one hand free to get the retainer thingy out and back in etc. etc.
What a nice exercise since I am going to order the Wolf spring set soon for a tune up.
Do it carefully and there will be no traces on the parts.

I made a short video but I cannot upload that here I found out.

Maybe the pictures will do to give you the idea?

Let me know what you guys think.

[Vlim]

Great way to screw up the finish and damage the metal.

OK for a non-collectable shooter but not recommended on a good collectable.

There are simple and good tools for doing it the correct way.

[DonVoigt]

Ouch!
As Vilm said, there is a tool for that.

The spring "removes" from the other side; so I guess there are a couple pictures missing.

I'll take a picture of my original type tool made by member Jim Solomon and post.

[Dick Herman]

Give Hans a break!
He has shared an innovative way to compress the recoil spring. Any damage to the frame can be prevented by using plastic tubing on the plier jaw that touches the frame.

[Vlim]

It's better to learn the right way, than to invest time and money in getting the wrong way to work.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by Vlim

It's better to learn the right way, than to invest time and money in getting the wrong way to work.

...Confucius???...

Agreed. There are several threads with pictures showing 'more better' ways to do it, using proper tools. I believe Jim Solomon markets a clone of the original tool which is used for this purpose. I prefer clamping the bare frame to a table and using a Cotter-pin puller to compress and remove/install the mainspring assembly, then using the puller to 'unscrew' the mainspring from its guide.Pliars slip too often and can be sure to find a blued surface, soft steel, or tender skin to impale.

...$.02...

Edit: Here's a pic from one of my threads. The Cotter-pin puller has a 90º tip that fits in the hole in the mainspring guide. The Luger frame is clamped securely to my mill table.

I've read other threads here about holding the frame between your knees, or pushing it against a table. Yikes! Clamping it down and using a Solomon-type tool (or a pin puller) is the bestest way, IMHO...

[Eugen]

I agree that Jim Solomon's beautiful repo tool makes a difficult job so much easier.

OP, you get a "A" for effort, but looking at that pic you provided made me cringe. Ouch! Get Jim's tool.

A bonus is the Jim's tool works perfectly for replacing the (are you vocabulary restrictions kidding me?!?!) hammer spring on an M1 30 carbine.

[DavidJayUden]

Lube the heck out of it, grip it tightly during shooting, and use the lowest recoiling rounds that will run the gun correctly. Unless you are way overloaded that gun will outlast you.
Don't overthink it.
dju

[F15E_WSO]

Thanks to all for the words and advice. I need to put more rounds through it, get more details and facts. Also key that I change one variable at a time. Will put the +150 rds of Fiocchi through it, wait for some PPU and see what that yields. I do NOT want to overpower the gun and cause excessive wear.
Cheers

[4 Scale]

High quality springs such as used as OEM in the Luger do not wear out progressively. I disagree that a properly functioning Luger should have the mainspring/springs replaced as a tune up. The Luger is a balanced system and replacing properly functioning parts can introduce changes that may reduce functionality. If anything Luger springs tend to be a bit too strong for the Winchester White Box or similar target ammo typically recommended for 9mm Lugers.

If you want to replace properly working old parts because you can/because the pistols are 'old', by that logic get a Glock.

I also cringed at the OP. I'm all for experimenting and finding new techniques and tools. But the chance for marring looks much greater with pliers than the traditional tool. With a little practice the traditional tool works well and doesn't marr. The traditional tool both compresses the spring and the little curve on the tool helps pull it out. I understand pliers compress the spring as well but lack a curve or other means to provide extractive pull. Pliers are therefore IMO inferior to the traditional tool.

As far as Fiocchi/weaker springs etc. etc. in .30 Lugers I've been there and done that. Fiochhi ammo is not powerful enough to operate most Luger actions correctly. Don't take my word for it, search the forums and many experienced collectors say the same thing. IMO it is a mistake to adjust mainsprings on a .30 Luger to try and improve cycling with Fiocchi, before testing with PPU or equivalent stronger ammo. It's unfortunate that PPU is nearly impossible to find right now, but that does not make spring modification a promising option.

[DonVoigt]

Now we have a (another) confusing thread with two different subjects!
Great example of "why not" to hijack a thread. JMHO.

[Eugen]

OP, here are pics of the Solomon spring tool that we are referencing:

[K.Wilhelm]

There are too many people to thank individually here for great advice and tips based on experience. Some of it goes back to "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"- good old common sense which seems to often be in short supply these days. Thanks all, Bill