my profile |
register |
faq |
search upload photo | donate | calendar |
12-23-2004, 09:38 AM | #1 |
User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Help looking for 1st Luger
Being a newbie (only been collecting for 8 months)I need advise on purchasing a WWII Luger. I bought my P.38 from FGS, Inc. and I'm happy with it (o.k. so I think it's dipped), now for a Christmas gift to myself I'm looking for a matching WWII Luger. I need to know a few things so please bear with me.
1.) What the heck does 'straw' mean I see it in many descriptions? 2.)What's 'Black Widow' mean? 3.) Does FGS 'dip' their Lugers they sell? I'd like to spend no more than $1500.00, can you guys point in the right direction for a GOOD dealer in this price range. Nobody wants to get ripped off, myself included! I'd like to wish everyone a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays! Thanks very much for your input. Mike |
12-23-2004, 09:46 AM | #2 | |
Super Moderator
Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: North of Spokane, WA
Posts: 15,935
Thanks: 2,034
Thanked 4,533 Times in 2,093 Posts
|
A few answers;
Straw is where it has been fire-blued, this is only done on certain years (pre-1936 or something like that). You can get a WW2 for "less" than $1500 if you look around. Here is an answer on Black Widows, not a true variation BTW: Quote:
BUY a collectable gun, so it rises in value, unless you plan on shooting it often, then buy one that is a shooter, reblued, etc, as a rep piece. Buy luger books, and learn, unless you just have money laying around, $1500 bucks is a bit of money.... Ed |
|
12-23-2004, 09:59 AM | #3 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Orygun
Posts: 4,243
Thanks: 118
Thanked 245 Times in 150 Posts
|
Hi Mike,
"Straw" is the golden-yellow color of the trigger, take down lever, safety, magazine release and extractor on Lugers that were manufactured prior to early 1937. Straw will not be found on a ligitimate Luger made after April 1937. There are lots of WWII Lugers around, for less than $1500. The average price is in the $1000 range. Give or take $200. A $1500 pistol should be in " excellent "condition. With a few exceptions. A good place to get a general idea is Simpson Ltd. There prices are at the top, for the most part, but will give you a good working knowledge of what to expect. Good Luck, Ron
__________________
I Still Need DWM side plate #49... if anyone runs across a nice one. What ~Rudyard Kipling~ said... |
12-23-2004, 01:28 PM | #4 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ct. and Ma.
Posts: 152
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Hello K1mri, please check your private messages.
|
12-23-2004, 02:51 PM | #5 |
User
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 539
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
K1 mri . If you are wanting a pistol in that price range,first you need to buy some books. LOTS of books are even better. You can then decide what it is you really want,and know about what it should cost you.Information is power. Read, study, and learn. These pistols have a lot of history to tell,if you will only listen!
|
12-24-2004, 02:36 PM | #6 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Texas
Posts: 1,016
Thanks: 94
Thanked 275 Times in 137 Posts
|
Ron,
I believe that you wil find some Banner Commercials later than 1937 that will have strawed parts. SteveM |
12-24-2004, 03:34 PM | #7 |
User
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Boston, MA
Posts: 27
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
Which book?
There are so many books, which book does a beginner like me start with?
thanks again |
12-24-2004, 04:45 PM | #8 |
RIP
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Ca.
Posts: 2,141
Thanks: 8
Thanked 89 Times in 54 Posts
|
For a binginners book, I think the best book to start any collection from is John Walter's "The Luger Book".....there are more detailed books once you decide on an certin type/time frame to collect....but a good beginners book as you asked for....hope this helps
|
12-24-2004, 05:43 PM | #9 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Orygun
Posts: 4,243
Thanks: 118
Thanked 245 Times in 150 Posts
|
Steve,
Thanks for the correction. I was thinking in terms of Third Reich military. Did'nt mean to mislead. Merry Christmas, Ron
__________________
I Still Need DWM side plate #49... if anyone runs across a nice one. What ~Rudyard Kipling~ said... |
12-26-2004, 03:31 AM | #10 |
User
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Southeastern USA
Posts: 369
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
K1mri, Check out the Classified section on the forum and get a shooter with wood grips and a wood bottom mag. wallmart USA ammo is fine in the 100 pack. Then learn the pistol as you spend the extra on reference material. I bet you will end up likeing your first luger so much you will never sell it. I would buy a workhorse shooter and put half the bucks in the bank and wait till 2006. The one you really like will still be out there.
|
12-26-2004, 04:25 PM | #11 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 176
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
K1mri, Some of the books I have to help me out are Lugers at Random, Luger by John Walter, Imperial Lugers, Luger Tips revised edition and The Imperial German Regimental Marking. I've been fortunate to have also made a couple of friends from LF that have been most helpfull. I've also found it wise to post questions here on LF and you'll be sure to get correct answers from the many collectors.
|
01-04-2005, 11:12 PM | #12 |
User
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Mid-West
Posts: 111
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
|
K1mri:
I started out with a shooter and an all matching 1937 S42 that's a great restoration candidate. She's just fine the way it is now. I am fascinated by this pistol. I was able to find my pistols by going to various shops and asking friends. Two pistols in two weeks. Now, I am ready to add that $1,000+ Thired Reich Luger to my milsurp collection. |
03-02-2005, 04:48 PM | #13 |
User
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Atlantic County, NJ, USA
Posts: 138
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
|
I've seen numerous Mauser-Interarms (1970's production) pictured with trigger, safety, ejector and take-down looking like "straw". (Didn't see any with the extractor strawed - I would have thought the extractor would be a prime candidate for tempering.) Is that merely painted or plated?
My understanding is that these parts ('37 and earlier?) were tempered to improve the "springiness" of the metal, which would reduce breakage.
__________________
"The Constitution is intended for use by a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate for the governance of any other." ~ John Quincy Adams |
|
|