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08-13-2011, 07:04 PM | #1 |
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New Stocks and Stock Irons
Hi All:
FYI!!! For those wanting a reproduction Artillery or Navy stock, SARCO, Inc., (908) 647-3800, now has them back in stock. Price is ok, as is quality. You can use these on a pistol originally designed for them, that is, either an original Artillery or Navy Parabellum. They are also offering stock irons for sale, for those of you needing one to complete a stock you may already have. Sieger |
08-14-2011, 02:57 AM | #2 |
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Hi, Do you happen to know the stock irons item number, because I can't find it, only the complite board is shown.
Thanks Alf.
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08-14-2011, 07:32 AM | #3 |
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There might be people who are casually interested in looking at pics of these, and the price as well...Sadly, without a link, they are SOL...
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08-14-2011, 05:26 PM | #4 |
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08-14-2011, 05:34 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
From my August 10th addition of Shotgun News, page 65. Stock Iron (only): LGR148 $69.95 Artillery Stock (complete) LGR157 $170.00 Navy Stock (complete) LGR158 $175.00 About a year or so ago, I bought some "old stock" Artillery stocks (sans irons) from Sarco. The quality was "ok" and the price was definately right! The quality of these new Sarco stocks is about the same as the stock I bought from Slatters Armory of Alexandria Va., in around 1981 or so. Those were the "Odin" stocks they were selling at the time for all of $89.00. That was quite a bit then. If you are looking for a perfect quality reproduction, you may just want to buy the iron and have a stock, made to original specs., by a real craftsman. Jerry may do these, but you will have to ask him. I remember, about a year ago, there were some really nice XXX wood Parabellum stocks on e-bay, but I can't remember the vendor or their price (high). What I would be willing to pay for would be a good reproduction of the rare Parabelum stock modeled after the Mauser C-96 stock. This is the stock that the pistol fits in. I read, somewhere, that these were BATFE approved because they were of original design, though very rare. This would have to be verified before you could attach and actually use one. Sieger Last edited by Sieger; 08-14-2011 at 09:18 PM. |
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08-14-2011, 05:41 PM | #6 |
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I have an uneasy feeling these are made by CMR, if so no thanks.
Harry |
08-14-2011, 06:16 PM | #7 | |
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For that uneasy feeling, try an Alka Seltzer. Frankly, the P-08 grips I bought from CMR, a few years ago, weren't all that hot either. As to who is making Sarco's stocks, I don't know, but I doubt if they are reselling CMR stocks, as they are just too darn expensive to start with. I guess you could e-mail or call them and find out for sure, if you are really interested in buy a stock for your Luger. Sieger |
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08-14-2011, 06:34 PM | #8 |
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Sarco usually IDs their products by stock number; I don't know who LGR is, but that's probably the manufacturer/distributor...
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08-14-2011, 07:31 PM | #9 | |
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Quote:
Thanks for posting the pictures!!! Nope, LGR means (Luger Part) as all of the parts listed on the site for a Luger start with that prefix. Sieger |
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08-14-2011, 07:47 PM | #10 |
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Ah, that makes sense! Thanks for that!
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08-14-2011, 08:11 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Harry http://www.cmrfirearms.com/shop/prod...bd5b6d0cb03777 |
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08-14-2011, 09:09 PM | #12 | |
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For me, its the quality and fit of the stock irons that makes the difference. Probably the worst rendition I've seen came with a LP-08 holster set I bought that was made in India. The leather holster itself was "ok" but the stock iron was a joke to say the least. How much do you want to bet that these little goodies are made in China? The irons I bought from Sarco, years ago, were really quite good. They all needed custom fitting to my pistols' particular lungs to function snuggly and properly. My old ones were custom fit by a friend who has passed away. When I get these new ones, I'm going to have to contact THOR to find out just how to fit these to my 1916 LP-08 myself. Sieger Last edited by Sieger; 08-14-2011 at 11:26 PM. |
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08-14-2011, 10:11 PM | #13 | |
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Harry |
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08-14-2011, 10:24 PM | #14 |
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It is perfectly obvious, but perhaps worth noting for folks that are new to fitting a stock iron...you do not remove any metal from the gun!...only from the iron. Usually the depth of the "channel" in the iron is too shallow and binds up when attempting to attach it to the gun. You need to remove material from the bottom of the channel. Some folks attempt to do this with a Dremel tool, but that is a bit hard to control. The best tool for the job is called a "riffler" file and can be obtained from places like Brownells, but also are usually available at good hobby stores and specialty hardware stores.
It doesn't take too long to remove enough metal to get a good fit. Take it a little at a time. A final polish with some 600 grit emory paper wrapped around the riffler makes the assembly smoother and a little cold blue makes it pretty (pretty only lasts a little while since installing the stock quickly wears through the blue).
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08-14-2011, 11:19 PM | #15 | |
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As always, thanks for your valuable insight and information! My prior three irons didn't really have a problem slipping onto the frame lung fully. Their problem was latching fully. The thumb latches wouldn't close all of the way, snuggly. My friend, somehow, disassembled these three and removed just enough metal, from the irons, for them to snug up nicely and latch completely to the frame lungs. Have you ever had a problem with an iron fully latching before? Sieger |
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08-15-2011, 02:35 AM | #16 | |
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Thanks!!! Yes, I can remember that now. I think all that I will need, if the irons do, indeed, slip easily onto my lungs, is to lightly and carefully stone down the "cylinders" until they just barely latch fully and snuggly shut. You are right; as I'd like to be shooting my LP-08 and have the stock fly off of it!! Perhaps, I could even arrange to have this awful signt on You-Tube. By the way, if you do want some good laughs, search "Luger Shooting" on You-Tube and just sit back and enjoy the "action"!!! Thanks!! Sieger |
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08-15-2011, 07:21 AM | #17 | |
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Quote:
Alf.
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08-15-2011, 08:03 AM | #18 |
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Not really...I do keyseat cutting and/or "T" slots, but a curved "T" slot is something that I've never tried...Can't even imagine how to do it...
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08-15-2011, 11:34 AM | #19 | |
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Quote:
Alf.
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08-15-2011, 11:47 AM | #20 |
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