Need help identifying a Luger S/42

[shogun17]

Hello Everyone,
I finally picked up a Luger (old childhood dream) but I need your knowledgeable help to identify the what it really is:
SN # 4422 gothic letter b under the frame
SN# 3283 gothic letter a under the barrel
Inside the wood grips it is stamped 22
on the toggle it says S/42 and then 24
on the side is says 95 with a Crowned gothic B and has 2 Mcrown and a smaller eagle
on the barrel there is a smaller eagle again
I can see a blued barrel base
Black bekelite magazine
A 9mm cartrige fits in the magazine and the chamber but I don't know what is the caliber actually need help with that too.

Any idea on the caliber, year ?
Many thanks
dan

[Mac Cat]

It's a mixed-parts luger.

The receiver has a mixture of parts, but was likely a Navy with a 6" barrel and usually in 9mm.
If you can slide a No. 2 pencil in the barrel, it's probably 9mm.
The toggle is a Mauser from WW-2 as is the plastic bottom unmarked magazine.
The side plate is an Erfurt piece.

My guess is that the grips would match the receiver.
They appear to be dirty, but not chipped or cracked.
Be very careful when you remove them not to chip the left grip at the safety lever.
We like to push them out from the magazine well, doing the right grip first.
Numbered grips a valuable.

I think the frame might be a DWM - need to see more of it to be sure.
It's old, because the safe position is down.


This is potentially a good shooter and the individual parts may be more valuable than the whole pistol.

A navy toggle would have a 2-position rear sight, which this does not.

Welcome to the Forum - that's for sharing you luger !

[Doubs]

Shogun17, welcome to the forum. Lots of knowledgeable folks here.

You have what may be the ultimate "mixmaster" of Lugers. The receiver and barrel are from an Imperial German Navy Luger manufactured by DWM during WW1. The side plate is from Erfurt - also WW1 - and your toggle train was made by Mauser during the Nazi era. The frame is also Mauser made.

From your pictures it looks as if it is not assembled correctly. Remove the magzine, lower the take down lever (locking block) and remove the side plate. Slide the upper forward and note the "S" hook hanging underneath near the back. Pull the upper far enough for the S hook to clear the main spring hook which will look flat and have a slot in the center. Tilt the frame upward and slide the upper rearward making sure that the S hook slides into the slot in the main spring hook and engages the S hook. Press the muzzle against a soft but firm surface (towel on a table top) forcing the upper rearward against the spring pressure. Replace the side plate and lock it in place with the take down lever. It should now function properly.

Below you can see the S hook and below that the main spring hook that the S hook must engage.

[rolandtg]

In those photos it looks like the barrel is bulged a couple of inches from the muzzle!
I wouldn't try to shoot it until you have it examined by a gunsmith.
Actually, I'm not sure I'd ever try to shoot it.

[shogun17]

Thank you so much I knew I was in the right place.
I actually acquired this piece during my last trip to France the armurier told me that in France all they can do with it is bury it cause they are not allowed to be owned unless you have a doctor certificate, a permit and authorization from the prefecture and a gun club license!!
What makes you think it's not put together correctly? It slides really well though? I will try what you mentioned as soon as I can.
I am really glad I asked.
What do you think would have caused that bulge in the barrel?

[Doubs]

Originally Posted by shogun17

What makes you think it's not put together correctly?

Either it's not together correctly or you have a long receiver on a short frame. The rails should not extend beyond the front of the frame as yours clearly do.

[DonVoigt]

The upper is one of the "long" early types, the overhang looks to be the exact 1/10" one would expect.

Barrel bulges are usually caused by a bullet lodged in the barrel, and another round fired without clearing it. Some barrels have been observed with several bullets lodged in the barrel!

[Mac Cat]

Amazing that you guys caught that bulge in the barrel !!

[shogun17]

DonVoight / Doubs: Do you think that it is safe to fire with that bulge in the barrel and if the slide is a long one onto a short frame? Could it be why there is the bulge in the first place?

[Kiwi]

Check there is no obstruction in the barrel.
Double check there is no obstruction

Another way to bulge a barrel is excess oil, the bullet creates a 'wave' of oil.
Too heavy an oil such as used for storage.
Clean the barrel with solvent
Then a patch with gun oil,
and run a dry patch down before shooting.


If all clear - should be OK to shoot

[Doubs]

Kiwi is correct. If the barrel is clean and unobstructed it should shoot OK. If the bulge isn't excessive, there won't be enough blow-by to reduce pressure and effect function.

[ithacaartist]

Just a minor correction...

First pic is Gothic font.

Second pic is cursive font, which is what I think you likely meant. Lower case letters were used for Luger serial numbers. Exact styles varied. Check the FAQ!

[shogun17]

Yes the barrel is clear and pretty clean but what's weird is that a 9mm bullet fits in the chamber through the slide but the same bullet does not fit through the end of the barrel...strange right cause it should be the same size no?

[Doubs]

Originally Posted by shogun17

Yes the barrel is clear and pretty clean but what's weird is that a 9mm bullet fits in the chamber through the slide but the same bullet does not fit through the end of the barrel...strange right cause it should be the same size no?

If I'm following you correctly, you're saying that you can chamber a 9mm cartridge OK but can't insert one into the muzzle. If so, that is normal.

The chamber is designed to accept the cartridge while the bore is smaller in diameter than the bullet. The bore - land to land - is .347" in diameter and the grooves will be approximately .004" deeper on each side for a total of .355". The actual bullet will be .3555" in diameter. When fired, the bullet seals the bore and creates the pressure that pushes it through the barrel while the same pressure rearward operates the action. Without sealing the bore, there's no pressure and the action will not function.

If you don't understand how a gun works, watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjQrhDKDWFk&t=219s

I also strongly suggest that you find someone qualified to teach you gun safety, operation and how to shoot your Luger. It's vitally important that you are safe with any firearm.

[shogun17]

What do you guys think the value of such a luger is?

[Bill_in_VA]

Originally Posted by shogun17

What do you guys think the value of such a luger is?

Minimal…perhaps $1000; it’s a cobbled together shooter with nothing matching.

[shogun17]

Thank you Doubs really cool video! Pretty complex a gun when you think about it pretty amazing.

[big open]

From my understanding and viewing of the photos provided, I'd estimate the value of subject "luger" might be $600 to $700 tops. It might be worth more than that (maybe $1000) if it were parted out and sold as pieces. Not long ago I picked up a S/42 1938 luger with one mismatched part for $400. I guess I was just at the right place at the right time.

[Vlim]

The barrel is toast and worthless, frame and toggle are always usefull. Receiver could be interesting for someone's navy project.

This one will bring more parted out, as it has no real merit in it's current configuration anyway.

[shogun17]

I see, well at least now I know a lot more I really appreciate you guys you have a wealth of knowledge that is impressive!