Navy Luger

[mikefromstpete]

I'm a new Luger owner with lots of questions. I'll make this my first one.
What does this mean. It is from the back strap of a 1915 Navy Luger handed down to me by a great uncle.
This is one of the 23 pieces I now own.
I'm searching thru this site and getting more confused. What did I get into?
Thanks for looking and your input
Mike

[Norme]

Hi Mike, Welcome to the forum. Your 1906 Navy is unit marked to the 2nd Torpedo Division, weapon #1325. Please post photos of the safety lever, both in the up and down positions so that we can determine if it has been altered. Your gun is listed in two different data bases, in one it is #4822, in the other #8122. Please let me know which is correct. Regards, Norm

[mikefromstpete]

Thanks, these are the pictures I have on file so far. The pistol in the middle is the Navy Luger the third picture is the toggle fourth under the barrel and fifth the acceptance marks.

[mikefromstpete]

So, what does it mean the #8122?

[Norme]

Hi Mike, You appear to have a 1906 Navy, 1st Issue Altered. The #8122 is this pistol's serial number. It's not possible to tell, from the pictures so far, to really assess this gun's condition, but I see no obvious red flags. Navy Lugers, as you may know, are highly desired by collectors, and your's seems to be a nice example. Regards, Norm

[mikefromstpete]

For your time and information.
I'm new to digital photography, I guess it shows.
I don't have a macro lens or better lighting. If you have the time, how can I make better pictures and of what? I will start off with the safety in both positions. I have seen that people remove the grips. I have no problem with that either.
I am missing one of the grip screws. And you said that there are two numbers in a data base and this one is one of the two, I guess the 8122 under the barrel does not show up too good.

[mrerick]

Hi,

There's a good discussion of photographing Lugers at:

http://forum.lugerforum.com/showthread.php?t=24031

which I put together as a PDF at:

http://forum.lugerforum.com/attachme...1&d=1282250724

- - - -

You can get a replacement grip screw from "LugerDoc" on this forum, and others. Post a WTB add in the appropriate area on this forum.

- - - -

Even with a standard digital camera, you can take good pictures. You need to use natural light, set it to its closeup mode when you're close (it usually looks like a flower symbol) and use a tripod.

- - - -

As you've inherited a rather large collection, my first advice is to relax, take your time and address a few things now:

- Inventory them all, including the complete serial numbers and a description. Use something simple like a spreadsheet to store the information.

- Dis-assemble and inspect them all, one at a time. You'll find instructions here on how to take apart a Luger and re-assemble it without damage. Do not force anything. Be particularly careful when removing the left Luger grip. It's easy to chip the wood near the safety lever. If you're not comfortable with this, find one of this forum's collectors in your area, or find a competent gunsmith to help you learn how.

- Look for the appropriate parts to be correctly numbered to the gun. Document this. Get a cleaning kit and, as necessary, clean the gun and lubricate it.

- Take action to preserve your guns from deterioration. The most critical thing is to prevent rust. You can get preservative oil (like Rem Oil or similar spray oils) and lightly coat all the metal parts.

- Store them securely in an environment that will not promote rust. It needs to be dry (50% humidity or less) and preferably climate controlled. I store guns in silicon impregnated "Gun socks" which you can obtain online inexpensively (try places like Midway USA or Cabelas). Get a safe and bolt it to the floor.

One by one, you can get help learning the details and values of each of your collection's items. You will find that the most complete information will come from books that specifically study and document Lugers and other period firearms. The books are expensive, but cheaper than the tuition you'll pay in other ways ("School of hard knocks" etc...).

Marc

Marc

[wlyon]

Need better pictures to really tell much. Right now from the pictures it appears to be reblued. Bill

[whcoyote]

Mike:
A little more info on your 1906 Navy Luger:
As you have already been told, it is unit marked to the 2nd Torpedo Division (II.T.D.) The 2nd Torpedo Division was based at the North Sea Naval Station in Wilhelmshaven, Germany. It's purpose was to train torpedo boat crews and other crews in the practice of torpedo warfare. This is a very desirable unit mark.
I, too, am wondering if this pistol has been refinished. There are two ways to tell. 1 - take the grips off and remove the barrel-receiver group from the pistol. Look at the insides of the frame in the magazine channel and in the recoil spring channel - also on the top of the frame deck. These areas should be in the white (not blued). 2 - look at the serial number under the barrel. If the numbers have a "halo" appearance around them, which has the appearance of faded or lightened-color bluing immediately around them, the finish is probably original.
As advised before, take your time with these pistols. Keep them safe and free from rust and corrosion and address them slowly, one at a time. Find out all you can about each one, one at a timeand then move to the next one. You should have several years of fun ahead of you.
A dear, departed member of Jan Still's Luger Forum, named Tom Armstrong, wrote a very informative thread on how to evaluate a Navy Luger - about 2008 I think. Go over there and look it up and read it. It will help you immensely.
Good luck,
Bob

[mikefromstpete]

Thanks for the info.
I am wondering how/why the blueing would be absent on the interior surfaces of the frame?
The numbers and proof marks seem to have a "halo" around them. All of the two digit numbers are the same as the last two of the number under the barrel, the serial number.
I'll be studying the dis-assembly instructions. I don't want to deal with the embarrassment of taking the pistol to the 'smith in a bag.

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by mikefromstpete

Thanks for the info.
I am wondering how/why the blueing would be absent on the interior surfaces of the frame?

I believe it has to do with the differences between rust bluing and hot salt bluing...Hot salt bluing involves immersing the item in a liquid solution of bluing salts...(IIRC)...

But I don't think I've read a description of how the rust blue was applied...Brush maybe???

Someone who knows must inform us...

[MFC]

I've read that it is swabbed on... so maybe with something like a Q tip. I also remember reading that the inside surfaces were not blued because of the tolerances of the slide and frame. Another reason may be that each coat of rust blue has to be carded and the internals would be hard to reach.

[mikefromstpete]

Is finished in a steam box and the rust is carded off down to the blue finish. This is repeated until the desired color is achieved.
From what I have read about rust and hot salt blue the entire piece would be altered by the process. But I've been wrong before.

As for the refinish, would it be "correct" if the arsenal did the work?

[lugerholsterrepair]

I am wondering how/why the blueing would be absent on the interior surfaces of the frame?

Rust bluing on these moving surfaces was found to cause spalling. and so it is left in the white.

As for the refinish, would it be "correct" if the arsenal did the work? If the finish is not ORIGINAL..the first time around..it is not correct to most collectors. There are exceptions..the Dutch reblued and rebarreled. These pistols are considered correct if changed.


Jerry Burney

[Edward Tinker]

Mike, go here; http://www.lugerforum.com/IDsheets.html

Download and then print whicher of the two styles you like, then take each gun, one at a time, and write the pertinent info down for each one.


Ed