A few issues with my 1917 DWM

walleyealx · 01-25-2013, 11:51 PM

I recently purchased this for pretty cheap knowing it would probably be a project. I already replaced the recoil spring with one from Wolff as it had an incorrect one.

As far as this issues:

- The hold-open doesn't hold open. I purchased a new mec-gar mag and it still doesn't lock open. Should the hold-open part lock into place or be able to slide pretty freely around?

- The mec-gar mag pops out when I **** the pistol, the original does not.

- Finally, when I shoot the casing is not ejected. The extractor does pull it out of the chamber, it's just that there's no ejection motion. The shell casing then just slides back into the chamber. Even when I manually **** the Luger it won't extract and I just have to poke the round out. Keep in mind that I was not using Winchester white box, so that could be part of my problems (but I figured I would at least be getting a stove-pipe with underpowered ammo).

** I have yet to test the new mag out with live ammo, so I'm not 100% sure how much of a difference this will make.

This is my first Luger so I'm still learning a lot. Thanks ahead of time for any help.

DavidJayUden · 01-26-2013, 12:11 AM

The hold open is just to the right side of the mag. well and should be pushed up by a magazine. If you remove the top half and insert an empty magazine it should push it up. Photos may help.
The gun MAY need a new mag. release button. The catch wears down and won't catch into the mag hole. Or it could probably be welded up and shaped back down. There again, take it apart and watch to see if the button drops into the hole, and if it does, pull down on the mag. and see if it holds.
Regarding the extraction but non-ejection, I suspect that the front of the ejector is broken off. It's the thin strip along the right side with a hook sticking inside to bump the case when it comes back. No hook, no bump.
Try it a bit at the range, loading one round at a time, then multiple rounds, good ammo. Pictures will help us get you closer on persistant problems.
dju

lugerholsterrepair · 01-26-2013, 01:07 AM

David is quite likely correct. The front part of Luger ejectors can be broken in just this scenario. I have seen a number of them broken off.

walleyealx · 01-26-2013, 01:43 AM

Thanks for the help so far. I took the ejector out and it seems to be all in tact according to pictures online; however, it was very straight and not at an angle. I went ahead and bent it like the pictures and snapped it back in. It seems to be locked in tight now, as opposed to having a decent amount of play.

As far as the hold-open goes, the mag does push it up when inserted; however, the action still does not lock back. I guess I could possibly be missing another integral part?

DavidJayUden · 01-26-2013, 09:21 AM

Sounds like the mag is not pushing it up high enough OR the rear catch on the actual hold open is either worn or broken OR the catch on the toggle (?) has worn. About has to be one of those 3. Or the hold opne lever is missing entirely.
dju

Lugerdoc · 01-26-2013, 09:50 AM

W, If bending your ejector did not improve things, It may be the it needs fitting. If your ejector is hanging up on the receiver and not going all the way in, this might be the problem. Also your mag catch may be OK and just need a stronger spring @$15 to do it's job. THe hold opens can be tricky, some of the new repros (unnumbered) were not made high enough at the rear to catch the breech block or your new recoil spring may be too powerful for the ammo that you are using. Does the HO work when the toggle is pulled to the rear manually? TH

walleyealx · 01-26-2013, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lugerdoc

W, If bending your ejector did not improve things, It may be the it needs fitting. If your ejector is hanging up on the receiver and not going all the way in, this might be the problem. Also your mag catch may be OK and just need a stronger spring @$15 to do it's job. THe hold opens can be tricky, some of the new repros (unnumbered) were not made high enough at the rear to catch the breech block or your new recoil spring may be too powerful for the ammo that you are using. Does the HO work when the toggle is pulled to the rear manually? TH

The hold-open that's in the pistol currently is matching (I'm guessing original as far as I know). The hold open does not work when toggled manually, that's what has me boggled. It seems to function correctly, but I honestly don't see what is supposed to catch on it when the toggle goes back. The slide just seems to push it down so it seems that there is no way for the hold-open to even lock anything back. But... that could just be because I'm such a Luger novice atm.

CAP Black · 01-26-2013, 05:05 PM

Some of these items are adjustable. I had a mag release button that wouldn't release and my gunsmith made an adjustment to the spring and it release just fine. The spring on the release was just old and sprung out of shape. A little adjustment made it good as new. A few bucks beats removal and replacing and hunting for a part - plus paying for the part.
Jack

01-25-2013, 11:51 PM	#1
walleyealx User Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	A few issues with my 1917 DWM I recently purchased this for pretty cheap knowing it would probably be a project. I already replaced the recoil spring with one from Wolff as it had an incorrect one. As far as this issues: - The hold-open doesn't hold open. I purchased a new mec-gar mag and it still doesn't lock open. Should the hold-open part lock into place or be able to slide pretty freely around? - The mec-gar mag pops out when I ** the pistol, the original does not. - Finally, when I shoot the casing is not ejected. The extractor does pull it out of the chamber, it's just that there's no ejection motion. The shell casing then just slides back into the chamber. Even when I manually the Luger it won't extract and I just have to poke the round out. Keep in mind that I was not using Winchester white box, so that could be part of my problems (but I figured I would at least be getting a stove-pipe with underpowered ammo). I have yet to test the new mag out with live ammo, so I'm not 100% sure how much of a difference this will make. This is my first Luger so I'm still learning a lot. Thanks ahead of time for any help.

01-26-2013, 01:07 AM	#3
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,772 Thanks: 4,940 Thanked 3,124 Times in 1,434 Posts	David is quite likely correct. The front part of Luger ejectors can be broken in just this scenario. I have seen a number of them broken off. __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 l[email protected] 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

01-26-2013, 09:50 AM	#6
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	W, If bending your ejector did not improve things, It may be the it needs fitting. If your ejector is hanging up on the receiver and not going all the way in, this might be the problem. Also your mag catch may be OK and just need a stronger spring @$15 to do it's job. THe hold opens can be tricky, some of the new repros (unnumbered) were not made high enough at the rear to catch the breech block or your new recoil spring may be too powerful for the ammo that you are using. Does the HO work when the toggle is pulled to the rear manually? TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 [email protected]

01-26-2013, 12:11 AM	#2
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	The hold open is just to the right side of the mag. well and should be pushed up by a magazine. If you remove the top half and insert an empty magazine it should push it up. Photos may help. The gun MAY need a new mag. release button. The catch wears down and won't catch into the mag hole. Or it could probably be welded up and shaped back down. There again, take it apart and watch to see if the button drops into the hole, and if it does, pull down on the mag. and see if it holds. Regarding the extraction but non-ejection, I suspect that the front of the ejector is broken off. It's the thin strip along the right side with a hook sticking inside to bump the case when it comes back. No hook, no bump. Try it a bit at the range, loading one round at a time, then multiple rounds, good ammo. Pictures will help us get you closer on persistant problems. dju

01-26-2013, 01:43 AM	#4
walleyealx User Join Date: Dec 2012 Posts: 7 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 1 Post	Thanks for the help so far. I took the ejector out and it seems to be all in tact according to pictures online; however, it was very straight and not at an angle. I went ahead and bent it like the pictures and snapped it back in. It seems to be locked in tight now, as opposed to having a decent amount of play. As far as the hold-open goes, the mag does push it up when inserted; however, the action still does not lock back. I guess I could possibly be missing another integral part?

01-26-2013, 09:21 AM	#5
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	Sounds like the mag is not pushing it up high enough OR the rear catch on the actual hold open is either worn or broken OR the catch on the toggle (?) has worn. About has to be one of those 3. Or the hold opne lever is missing entirely. dju

01-26-2013, 05:05 PM	#8
CAP Black User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Fairmont, WV Right here in Mountaineer country and God's country Posts: 767 Thanks: 100 Thanked 168 Times in 96 Posts	Some of these items are adjustable. I had a mag release button that wouldn't release and my gunsmith made an adjustment to the spring and it release just fine. The spring on the release was just old and sprung out of shape. A little adjustment made it good as new. A few bucks beats removal and replacing and hunting for a part - plus paying for the part. Jack