How to straw question?

Dan Clemons · 03-30-2002, 11:55 AM

I remember seeing it in writing somewhere and as I recall it was 250 degrees for 10 minutes or so. I would like to do the trigger and safety on my Artillery.

Thanks for the help.

Dan

Dan Clemons · 03-30-2002, 04:15 PM

At 425 degrees, it took 15 minutes for thin parts and as much as 25 minutes for the thicker trigger. Here is a look at the result.

http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/19...ryShooter2.jpg

Dan Clemons · 03-30-2002, 04:19 PM

Removing the safety was a breeze one I learned what was holding it in place. Dan

http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/19...eryShooter.jpg

Dan Clemons · 03-30-2002, 04:23 PM

Here is a look of all four parts. I think if I had to do it over again, I would turn the heat down to 400 and pull them a little earlier than I did. They look a little dard to me. Dan

http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/19...ryShooter4.jpg

03-31-2002, 12:44 PM

Dan, I agree with the 400 degrees and watching them carefully, as thinner parts will be done quicker than thicker ones. Also the polishing is important. If you want them to shine, you need a high polish, but to look original just use scotch bright or steel wool. Tom h.

Johnny Peppers · 03-31-2002, 12:54 PM

Also pay close attention to the direction the final sanding marks are running.

Dan Clemons · 03-31-2002, 02:41 PM

Thanks for all the help. Although all matching numbers except magazine, I just wanted to pretty up this excellent Artillery shooter.

I did use the Scotch bright on the parts before strawing. It did help to remove some light pitting. Polishing would have made them brighter but it is nice to know that this is how it looked originally.

Thanks for all the help!

Dan

03-31-2002, 03:16 PM

jeezzzz dan,,,hope you didnt cause anyone in this forum to have a heart attack with your project!!!! hahahaaa

Dan Clemons · 03-31-2002, 10:57 PM

I did not mean to step on anyoneÃ¢??s toes so to speak. I was just trying to see what I could do to spiff it up a little. If I wanted a real professional job, I would send to Ted's. Mine is a good example of what an amateur job looks like.

I sent the grips off to Hugh Clark for re-checkering. I'll post a picture when I'm done.

Ted's Strawing is ZZZZZZZZZZZ BEST and I mean that with all sincerity.

Dan

04-01-2002, 09:06 PM

03-30-2002, 11:55 AM	#1
Dan Clemons User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	How to straw question? I remember seeing it in writing somewhere and as I recall it was 250 degrees for 10 minutes or so. I would like to do the trigger and safety on my Artillery. Thanks for the help. Dan

03-30-2002, 04:15 PM	#2
Dan Clemons User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: How to straw question? At 425 degrees, it took 15 minutes for thin parts and as much as 25 minutes for the thicker trigger. Here is a look at the result. http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/19...ryShooter2.jpg

03-30-2002, 04:19 PM	#3
Dan Clemons User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Here is another photo close up Removing the safety was a breeze one I learned what was holding it in place. Dan http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/19...eryShooter.jpg

03-30-2002, 04:23 PM	#4
Dan Clemons User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Last Photo Here is a look of all four parts. I think if I had to do it over again, I would turn the heat down to 400 and pull them a little earlier than I did. They look a little dard to me. Dan http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/19...ryShooter4.jpg

03-31-2002, 12:44 PM	#5
tom h Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Strawing Dan, I agree with the 400 degrees and watching them carefully, as thinner parts will be done quicker than thicker ones. Also the polishing is important. If you want them to shine, you need a high polish, but to look original just use scotch bright or steel wool. Tom h.

03-31-2002, 12:54 PM	#6
Johnny Peppers User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Calion, Arkansas Posts: 1,042 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Re: Strawing Also pay close attention to the direction the final sanding marks are running.

03-31-2002, 02:41 PM	#7
Dan Clemons User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Strawing Thanks for all the help. Although all matching numbers except magazine, I just wanted to pretty up this excellent Artillery shooter. I did use the Scotch bright on the parts before strawing. It did help to remove some light pitting. Polishing would have made them brighter but it is nice to know that this is how it looked originally. Thanks for all the help! Dan

03-31-2002, 03:16 PM	#8
bh Guest Posts: n/a	Re: Strawing jeezzzz dan,,,hope you didnt cause anyone in this forum to have a heart attack with your project!!!! hahahaaa

03-31-2002, 10:57 PM	#9
Dan Clemons User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Re: Strawing I did not mean to step on anyoneÃ¢??s toes so to speak. I was just trying to see what I could do to spiff it up a little. If I wanted a real professional job, I would send to Ted's. Mine is a good example of what an amateur job looks like. I sent the grips off to Hugh Clark for re-checkering. I'll post a picture when I'm done. Ted's Strawing is ZZZZZZZZZZZ BEST and I mean that with all sincerity. Dan

04-01-2002, 09:03 PM	#10
Dan Clemons User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Grants Pass, OR Posts: 184 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	My feeble attempt at Gold Lettering (EOM)
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04-01-2002, 09:06 PM	#11
66mustang Guest Posts: n/a	Dan the 1918 looks sweet to me! (EOM)