Nice 1900

[CJS57]

Good info Ed! I think the gun could have the cracks welded, and have the barrel relined with an insert, test fired, re-rust blued, original markings micro blasted to create halos etc. But probably, it will become an SS issued snub nose!

[Green57]

The seller said if he didn't get at least his minimum asking price he was going to rebarrel it and keep it. He said he had sold a similar luger for $4000.00, so he thought his asking price was quite fair.

I told him about this post when I made him my offer to buy the pistol. I figured he should have some information on what the real value of the pistol was. Don't think he really cared, I think he just might be trolling for a sucker.

G57

[alvin]

If cut the middle broken section off, and weld a good section on, it's possible to align the rifling. "Weimar Red 9" was reworked that way, looking into the bore, the rifling looks perfect. But the silver brazing line is visible outside. I bet today's technology can hide the lines much better, visually.

After repairing, It does not have to be presented as an exotic piece. It's a repaired pistol. Probably will cost a few hundred dollars. I would think that's better than simply replacing the whole barrel -- the number is kept. The only uncomfortable part is ... it's repaired. But it's already broken, isn't it...

[Michael Zeleny]

Originally Posted by alvin

If cut the middle broken section off, and weld a good section on, it's possible to align the rifling. "Weimar Red 9" was reworked that way, looking into the bore, the rifling looks perfect. But the silver brazing line is visible outside. I bet today's technology can hide the lines much better, visually.

After repairing, It does not have to be presented as an exotic piece. It's a repaired pistol. Probably will cost a few hundred dollars. I would think that's better than simply replacing the whole barrel -- the number is kept. The only uncomfortable part is ... it's repaired. But it's already broken, isn't it...

Rewelded barrels are unsafe to shoot. If you are going to repair a pistol, do it right. Mount a rust blued Lothar Walther barrel, or better yet, a NOS armorer's replacement item, number to match the gun, and sign the work.

[alvin]

I agree welding will be unsafe to shoot. But usually people don't even buy a 1920 7,65 DWM for shooting, why would someone buy a 1900 DWM for shooting?? I still think it's better to keep the number, if interested in this particular gun.

And, if an owner changed mind in future, it's always possible to get rid of that welded barrel, and install a new barrel on it. At an extra cost though. So, this step can be rolled back. Rebarrel it at the beginning, then there will be no return.

[Michael Zeleny]

Originally Posted by alvin

But usually people don't even buy a 1920 7,65 DWM for shooting, why would someone buy a 1900 DWM for shooting??

Because it's the best shooting Luger variant.

[Green57]

I would love to repair and then shoot this pistol from time to time. Even though the seller has dropped the by now price by $800.00 for the second listing, he is still hanging on to the $1500.00 opening bid.

Perhaps after its listed a few more times with no takers, I will try again to make him an offer in the price range Ron has suggested. Is it okay to call dibs on the pistol?

I would think that after reading this tread the seller would come to understand no informed buyer is going to pay $1500.00 for a shooter that still has to be repaired even if it is a nice looking 1900.

G57

[DavidJayUden]

So maybe he is hoping for that UNinformed buyer?
Also, the BroomCloset in Florida relines barrels for C96 and Lugers. I'm wondering about an external repair followed by a sleeve?
But regardless, there are better deals out there.
dju

[alvin]

Who's the seller of this gun?

[Green57]

dju, that's what I'm thinking or like I said before, a sucker.

I though of that repair method also. I think that would be an option if the sleeve alone was able to contain the pressure of a fired round. But the crack would also have to be welded, finished, and the barrel reblued. After all that you still have the original barrel that has been welded, sleeved and reblued so....its really not in it's original condition. I think a rebarrel is the best bet safety and effort wise.

Like its been stated before, the pistol lost it's true collector value when that second round was fired, I don't think a new barrel will hurt its value, it will just add some safety to the time it spends on the range.

alvin, I wouldn't want people to give out my name on the internet without my permission, so I will not post the sellers name out of common courtesy.

G57

[DavidJayUden]

G57:
I have a beautiful matching Artillery Luger with a bulged barrel. Seems a couple of kids tried shooting it and stuck one bullet, then another, then another. Anyway, the barrel is slightly bulged but not fractured. So I took it to the range and banged away. Shoots fine, but I'm not sure what to do with it if I ever decide to sell.
dju

[Green57]

dju,

I have heard of people shooting both rifles and pistols with bulged barrels with no great loss in accuracy. I have read that as long as the last few inches of a barrel are in good shape dimension wise and the barrel still has a good crown the firearm will still shoot well.

I can't speak from personal experience for a bulged barrel, but I have an old Mannlicher-Schoeanuer and a Remington model 8 both with lightly pitted/frosty bores that still shoot well.

Lightly pitted is okay, Bulged is okay in some cases, a fractured barrel needs to replaced in my opinion.

As for the Artillery, sell it as is or replace the barrel. As long as you price it to reflect the damaged/replaced barrel. Describe it in an accurate fashion, so the buyer knows what he's getting both parties will sleep well at night.

G57

[sheepherder]

Originally Posted by DavidJayUden

G57:
I have a beautiful matching Artillery Luger with a bulged barrel. ...I'm not sure what to do with it if I ever decide to sell.
dju

Gerry Tomek has successfully un-bulged barrels with a 'saddle' which fits over the bulge and is then tapped while turning the barrel. Pics look good of the finished fix.

I have also seen bulged barrels put back round using a tool that looks like a pipe cutter but with three rollers (no cutter). It works great, but leaves circular marks. It is loose enough to ride the Luger taper but the resulting barrel needs refinishing.

Gerry's method is cool, and a Luger taper could be easily bored in a steel block on a lathe, then split. It would likely be gun-specific since the taper is different diameter at any point on the barrel. From a machining point of view, it sounds like a fun project. (For someone else!).