Cocking problem? - Page 2

JIMHAY97 · 12-13-2009, 12:58 AM

I can't get it to rotate. I'm trying to use a jewelers screwdriver to pry it up but don't want to scratch it. Is there some kind of trick to make it move? Thanks......

MFC · 12-13-2009, 02:13 AM

Jim,
Use a brass screwdriver placed between the plate and bar, and tap it with a small hammer.

JIMHAY97 · 12-13-2009, 04:52 PM

OK, got it out. What a pain if you don't have the right tools. What started this whole project is that my side plate won't sit flat against the side of the receiver. So I swapped it with one from another gun and it did but it wouldn't recock after first shot. So I followed this sticky to fix it. Anyone ever have to fix a sideplate that won't sit flat? It shoots OK but I don't like the 1/64th tapered gap from front to rear looking down on it. This is my shooter gun made from several.

dlon21 · 06-29-2010, 09:22 PM

I seem to have this cocking problem with my P08 too, a 1940 Mauser 9mm. Sometimes it doesn't fire when firing live ammo at the range, upon pulling the trigger several times it fired again.

Also, the gun seems to work fine when hand cocked, slowly. Sometimes, especially if I tilt the gun to the left, and c o c k it really fast, as in it being fired, it doesn't work. The firing pin is then in its forward position, not cocked.

- when the gun has this malfunction, is the firing pin in its forward position?
-if I c o c k it by hand, you hear it click, and it works...

Will try to clean it further and see if the plunger works freely in the sear bar first. Grateful for any answers!

sincerely, Daniel

dlon21 · 07-02-2010, 10:14 PM

Nobody..? =)

Edward Tinker · 07-03-2010, 07:58 AM

Daniel, did you try the fixes suggested above?

If thats not the issue, then start a new thread and folks should answer.

ed

dlon21 · 07-04-2010, 06:44 AM

Ed;

I tried the above fix a couple days ago. I think there's something else wrong with the sear bar, will try to get parts to try out soon. Thanks for your answer.

Lugerdoc · 07-05-2010, 10:41 AM

As has been noted, this is a common problem, particularly on lugers with replaced or mismatched parts. I receive at least 2 lugers a month requiring "trigger jobs". I consider Hugh's fix as an alternative, non-factory type repair, but it usually works in the cases where the FP will release on initial cocking (where the overlap of the FP & sear are not too great and the trigger is engaging the trigger lever OK). THe factory fix would be to install a trigger lever that has the correct angle to both push in the sear far enough to release the FP (striker), AND come back far enough, when the trigger is release, to allow the disconnector (plunger in the trigger bar) to push past it. As you can see, there are several parts (tigger, sear, FP, trigger bar & disconnector) that must be in balance to operate correctly. TH

Lugerdoc · 07-06-2010, 11:01 AM

JH, Getting the side plate to lay flat on the frame is a matter of judicious bending and perhaps a bit of interior filing. This should be done before even installing the trigger lever and attempting to get a decent FP release. TH

netwerkz5 · 05-21-2011, 08:50 PM

Thanks Tom for your advise. worked like a charm on my "parts master" luger. now off to the range to test it out!

Dirty Mike · 03-19-2012, 06:15 AM

Does modifying these parts affect the value of the gun itself? I realize if it does not function properly that is bad, but I dont want to alter anything to affect the value as I dont plan on shooting the gun too much anyway?

Thanks for any advice.

lugersrkewl · 03-19-2012, 09:51 AM

if you have a righteous example of a matching original luger its best to leave it alone. If its a shooter slight modification to make it fire is fine. Or you could use lugerdoc whos on this forum. Hes cool because he repairs/modifies lugers but is also a collector so he knows the can and cants and how far you can take it before something starts to compromise value.

Ronfromflorida · 07-08-2012, 08:21 PM

Hey Hugh, you Sir are a certified firearms genius, my damn good looking, sort of mismatched, 1917 P 08 started giving me problems over two years ago, I couldn't figure it out, brought it to a gun smith no one could fix it.
Followed your instructions, polished and beveled the trigger bar as you showed so well in that very clear photo you posted, and it was back to working perfectly bang bang bang.....
Thank you Sir....
Myron thanks for your help too.

luigi · 05-10-2014, 01:08 PM

just a great big THANKS YOU! ( as in HUGH). I am a luger virgin and had the fire...no fire syndrome.
I did the dremel tool on the sear bar plunger and trigger lever and IT PERFORMS PERFECT!!
I really appreciate the help of the "all knowing" folks on this forum.

rossgn · 03-18-2015, 03:12 PM

Trying this fix on my 9mm. It is stated to stone the " top" of the sear button, but from the pics, it looks the bevel is applied to the left or right side of the button as related to frame? The button on mine is already somewhat beveled on the " bottom" of the button as related to frame? Just want to make sure I bevel the correct side.

4 Scale · 03-18-2015, 06:55 PM

In doing this fix myself, I bevel what I would call the "left" side of the sear button, left being described as the left side of the pistol as I hold it in normal sighting position as if to discharge it. As Hugh said in post #13, idea is to get the button to go under the trigger bar, or in my view trigger bar to ride up over the button as the receiver returns to firing position.

That said I was able to restore proper function mostly by beveling the trigger lever, with very little new bevel applied to the plunger ("button"). Hope this helps.

rossgn · 03-18-2015, 07:25 PM

Got it. Thanks!

ChuckM · 08-13-2015, 05:51 PM

Hi. I was reading this thread with interest. Hoping to solve a problem I have with a 1916 Erfurt. In my case the gun will not **** at all, even by hand. The action seems to work, it will hold open with an empty mag, but doesn't seem to **** or dry fire no matter what. Internally the gun looks good. The only thing I see is some noticeable "peening" around the Breech Block where the Firing Pin Spring Guide locks in. That FPSG also doesn't seem to stay in very well and often pops out when field stripping. The spring itself is a little bent (possibly caused when the guide pops out). I plan on replacing the spring, but looking for advice to solve the cocking problem at the same time. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. ChuckM

PS- also if the problem is the lever not slipping over the Trigger Bar, shouldn't you be able to release/dry fire it with the side plate off and by depressing the trigger bar? I don't think my problem is that its not releasing, it appears not to be cocking to start with. Thanks again. ChuckM

DonVoigt · 08-13-2015, 07:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChuckM

Hi. I was reading this thread with interest. Hoping to solve a problem I have with a 1916 Erfurt. In my case the gun will not **** at all, even by hand. The action seems to work, it will hold open with an empty mag, but doesn't seem to **** or dry fire no matter what. Internally the gun looks good. The only thing I see is some noticeable "peening" around the Breech Block where the Firing Pin Spring Guide locks in. That FPSG also doesn't seem to stay in very well and often pops out when field stripping. The spring itself is a little bent (possibly caused when the guide pops out). I plan on replacing the spring, but looking for advice to solve the cocking problem at the same time. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. ChuckM

PS- also if the problem is the lever not slipping over the Trigger Bar, shouldn't you be able to release/dry fire it with the side plate off and by depressing the trigger bar? I don't think my problem is that its not releasing, it appears not to be cocking to start with. Thanks again. ChuckM

Why don't you start a new thread and post pictures of the related pieces?

12-13-2009, 02:13 AM	#22
MFC User Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Louisiana Posts: 1,237 Thanks: 183 Thanked 281 Times in 162 Posts	Jim, Use a brass screwdriver placed between the plate and bar, and tap it with a small hammer. __________________ Mike C.

07-03-2010, 07:58 AM	#26
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,935 Thanks: 2,033 Thanked 4,533 Times in 2,093 Posts	Daniel, did you try the fixes suggested above? If thats not the issue, then start a new thread and folks should answer. ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

07-05-2010, 10:41 AM	#28
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	As has been noted, this is a common problem, particularly on lugers with replaced or mismatched parts. I receive at least 2 lugers a month requiring "trigger jobs". I consider Hugh's fix as an alternative, non-factory type repair, but it usually works in the cases where the FP will release on initial cocking (where the overlap of the FP & sear are not too great and the trigger is engaging the trigger lever OK). THe factory fix would be to install a trigger lever that has the correct angle to both push in the sear far enough to release the FP (striker), AND come back far enough, when the trigger is release, to allow the disconnector (plunger in the trigger bar) to push past it. As you can see, there are several parts (tigger, sear, FP, trigger bar & disconnector) that must be in balance to operate correctly. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 [email protected]

07-06-2010, 11:01 AM	#29
Lugerdoc Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: POB 398 St.Charles,MO. 63302 Posts: 5,089 Thanks: 6 Thanked 736 Times in 483 Posts	JH, Getting the side plate to lay flat on the frame is a matter of judicious bending and perhaps a bit of interior filing. This should be done before even installing the trigger lever and attempting to get a decent FP release. TH __________________ Tom Heller POB 398 ST.Charles, MO. 63302 Tel 636-447-3006 [email protected]

03-19-2012, 06:15 AM	#31
Dirty Mike New User Join Date: Mar 2012 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Modifying Trigger lever and Sear Bar issues Does modifying these parts affect the value of the gun itself? I realize if it does not function properly that is bad, but I dont want to alter anything to affect the value as I dont plan on shooting the gun too much anyway? Thanks for any advice.

12-13-2009, 12:58 AM	#21
JIMHAY97 User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Washington State Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I can't get it to rotate. I'm trying to use a jewelers screwdriver to pry it up but don't want to scratch it. Is there some kind of trick to make it move? Thanks......

12-13-2009, 04:52 PM	#23
JIMHAY97 User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Washington State Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	OK, got it out. What a pain if you don't have the right tools. What started this whole project is that my side plate won't sit flat against the side of the receiver. So I swapped it with one from another gun and it did but it wouldn't recock after first shot. So I followed this sticky to fix it. Anyone ever have to fix a sideplate that won't sit flat? It shoots OK but I don't like the 1/64th tapered gap from front to rear looking down on it. This is my shooter gun made from several.

06-29-2010, 09:22 PM	#24
dlon21 New User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: sweden Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I seem to have this cocking problem with my P08 too, a 1940 Mauser 9mm. Sometimes it doesn't fire when firing live ammo at the range, upon pulling the trigger several times it fired again. Also, the gun seems to work fine when hand cocked, slowly. Sometimes, especially if I tilt the gun to the left, and c o c k it really fast, as in it being fired, it doesn't work. The firing pin is then in its forward position, not cocked. - when the gun has this malfunction, is the firing pin in its forward position? -if I c o c k it by hand, you hear it click, and it works... Will try to clean it further and see if the plunger works freely in the sear bar first. Grateful for any answers! sincerely, Daniel

07-02-2010, 10:14 PM	#25
dlon21 New User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: sweden Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Nobody..? =)

07-04-2010, 06:44 AM	#27
dlon21 New User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: sweden Posts: 3 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Ed; I tried the above fix a couple days ago. I think there's something else wrong with the sear bar, will try to get parts to try out soon. Thanks for your answer.

05-21-2011, 08:50 PM	#30
netwerkz5 New User Join Date: Dec 2010 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks Tom for your advise. worked like a charm on my "parts master" luger. now off to the range to test it out!

03-19-2012, 09:51 AM	#32
lugersrkewl Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Ussr Posts: 425 Thanks: 198 Thanked 75 Times in 58 Posts	if you have a righteous example of a matching original luger its best to leave it alone. If its a shooter slight modification to make it fire is fine. Or you could use lugerdoc whos on this forum. Hes cool because he repairs/modifies lugers but is also a collector so he knows the can and cants and how far you can take it before something starts to compromise value. Last edited by lugersrkewl; 03-19-2012 at 03:16 PM.

07-08-2012, 08:21 PM	#33
Ronfromflorida User Join Date: Jul 2011 Posts: 6 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hey Hugh, you Sir are a certified firearms genius, my damn good looking, sort of mismatched, 1917 P 08 started giving me problems over two years ago, I couldn't figure it out, brought it to a gun smith no one could fix it. Followed your instructions, polished and beveled the trigger bar as you showed so well in that very clear photo you posted, and it was back to working perfectly bang bang bang..... Thank you Sir.... Myron thanks for your help too.

05-10-2014, 01:08 PM	#34
luigi User Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: arkansas Posts: 6 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	just a great big THANKS YOU! ( as in HUGH). I am a luger virgin and had the fire...no fire syndrome. I did the dremel tool on the sear bar plunger and trigger lever and IT PERFORMS PERFECT!! I really appreciate the help of the "all knowing" folks on this forum. Last edited by luigi; 05-11-2014 at 10:45 AM.

03-18-2015, 03:12 PM	#35
rossgn User Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 37 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Trying this fix on my 9mm. It is stated to stone the " top" of the sear button, but from the pics, it looks the bevel is applied to the left or right side of the button as related to frame? The button on mine is already somewhat beveled on the " bottom" of the button as related to frame? Just want to make sure I bevel the correct side. Last edited by rossgn; 03-18-2015 at 04:42 PM.

03-18-2015, 06:55 PM	#36
4 Scale User Join Date: Nov 2014 Posts: 544 Thanks: 194 Thanked 489 Times in 251 Posts	In doing this fix myself, I bevel what I would call the "left" side of the sear button, left being described as the left side of the pistol as I hold it in normal sighting position as if to discharge it. As Hugh said in post #13, idea is to get the button to go under the trigger bar, or in my view trigger bar to ride up over the button as the receiver returns to firing position. That said I was able to restore proper function mostly by beveling the trigger lever, with very little new bevel applied to the plunger ("button"). Hope this helps.

03-18-2015, 07:25 PM	#37
rossgn User Join Date: Jul 2014 Posts: 37 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Got it. Thanks!

08-13-2015, 05:51 PM	#38
ChuckM User Join Date: Aug 2015 Posts: 9 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I have a similar problem, but Hi. I was reading this thread with interest. Hoping to solve a problem I have with a 1916 Erfurt. In my case the gun will not ** at all, even by hand. The action seems to work, it will hold open with an empty mag, but doesn't seem to ** or dry fire no matter what. Internally the gun looks good. The only thing I see is some noticeable "peening" around the Breech Block where the Firing Pin Spring Guide locks in. That FPSG also doesn't seem to stay in very well and often pops out when field stripping. The spring itself is a little bent (possibly caused when the guide pops out). I plan on replacing the spring, but looking for advice to solve the cocking problem at the same time. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks. ChuckM PS- also if the problem is the lever not slipping over the Trigger Bar, shouldn't you be able to release/dry fire it with the side plate off and by depressing the trigger bar? I don't think my problem is that its not releasing, it appears not to be cocking to start with. Thanks again. ChuckM Last edited by ChuckM; 08-13-2015 at 06:36 PM.