First post 3777 DMW 1915 luger fractured

powerhouse · 02-07-2021, 02:31 AM

Hey guys my luger has a fracture in the part (004 in the part picture) the part that has the fancy DWM written on it. It's right by the front locking pin. I was having doubles/ triples going off, and rounds jamming upright, and had to inspect the gun and that's what I found. Is there a way to repair it? I think every number is matching on the gun, even the firing pin is original. For a while it was shooting perfectly, no jams at all.

I love my 3777 luger, I must fix it.

Doubs · 02-07-2021, 03:29 AM

Welcome to the forum and am sorry that your beloved Luger has a problem.

For us to give the best advice, we'll need to see pictures of the gun, especially clear and sharp closeups of the problem area(s).

mrerick · 02-07-2021, 12:35 PM

No way to know what part "4" is... different parts diagrams have different numbering. If you're talking about the FAQ document's 1908 Luger diagram, it's the middle toggle.

If you're talking about the breech block (in front of the DWM toggle within the toggle train), or the area around the DWM toggle's axle hole, you'll need to replace the part and possibly others that were damaged.

These parts all contribute in an additive way to establishing proper headspace and breech lock.

They are hand fit, and must be properly fit to shoot safely and reliably. Sometimes you luck out with used parts, but not always. Occasionally you will find complete toggle trains for sale as well.

Geo99 · 03-26-2021, 02:10 AM

If your breechblock or toggle link is cracked, the gun is no longer collectible. Buy a new toggle train to keep shooting it. I believe G.T. (Gerald) on this site has some right now - you can email him at [email protected].

Bill_in_VA · 03-26-2021, 07:34 AM

This is the danger of shooting an all-matching collectible gun. A broken part turns it int a mismatched shooter. I’m sorry Luger University tuition bit you. Reach out to members GT or Lugerdoc. They can most likely help you with the parts you need. A lot of guys (myself included) seek ut a mismatched gun or a spare toggle train so we can shoot without risking damage.

spangy · 03-26-2021, 10:41 AM

You have learned the hard way that firing a 106 year old #'s matching gun has its risks.
Luger University tuition fees are not cheap either monetarily or emotionally

This is every members nightmare and I am sorry that for you it is reality ... having said that I know you are at least in the right place ... people here have the know how and parts to help you and will without a doubt.

Bill_in_VA's advice regarding a spare toggle set or a complete shooter is the way to go for many of us.

Best wishes powerhouse.
Greg

STEINBVG · 03-26-2021, 01:03 PM

It time Luger owner, with the input of old timers here, I carefully deliberated on the issue of shooting my ‘modern’ brand new Interarms Luger circa 1977 and obtained for it the whole separate shooter upper+ a modern magazine.

Even though this new Luger can perhaps tolerate more abuse and is not as collectible as it,s older cousins , I would not want to break matching parts. It would be like undefeated Mike Tyson,s first loss...
Never quite the same.

GT , a gun smith here assisted me a great deal in doing that.
Very happy with the outcome. The shooting experience is superb.

02-07-2021, 02:31 AM	#1
powerhouse New User Join Date: Jul 2020 Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	First post 3777 DMW 1915 luger fractured Hey guys my luger has a fracture in the part (004 in the part picture) the part that has the fancy DWM written on it. It's right by the front locking pin. I was having doubles/ triples going off, and rounds jamming upright, and had to inspect the gun and that's what I found. Is there a way to repair it? I think every number is matching on the gun, even the firing pin is original. For a while it was shooting perfectly, no jams at all. I love my 3777 luger, I must fix it.

02-07-2021, 12:35 PM	#3
mrerick Super Moderator - Patron LugerForum Life Patron Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Eastern North Carolina, USA Posts: 3,909 Thanks: 1,374 Thanked 3,110 Times in 1,510 Posts	No way to know what part "4" is... different parts diagrams have different numbering. If you're talking about the FAQ document's 1908 Luger diagram, it's the middle toggle. If you're talking about the breech block (in front of the DWM toggle within the toggle train), or the area around the DWM toggle's axle hole, you'll need to replace the part and possibly others that were damaged. These parts all contribute in an additive way to establishing proper headspace and breech lock. They are hand fit, and must be properly fit to shoot safely and reliably. Sometimes you luck out with used parts, but not always. Occasionally you will find complete toggle trains for sale as well. __________________ Igitur si vis pacem, para bellum - - Therefore if you want peace, prepare for war.

03-26-2021, 02:10 AM	#4
Geo99 User Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Whidbey Island WA Posts: 398 Thanks: 102 Thanked 125 Times in 74 Posts	If your breechblock or toggle link is cracked, the gun is no longer collectible. Buy a new toggle train to keep shooting it. I believe G.T. (Gerald) on this site has some right now - you can email him at [email protected]. __________________ "Diplomacy is the art of saying nice doggie, until you can find a rock." - Will Rogers

03-26-2021, 07:34 AM	#5
Bill_in_VA User Join Date: Nov 2013 Location: Southwest Virginia Posts: 373 Thanks: 771 Thanked 554 Times in 198 Posts	This is the danger of shooting an all-matching collectible gun. A broken part turns it int a mismatched shooter. I’m sorry Luger University tuition bit you. Reach out to members GT or Lugerdoc. They can most likely help you with the parts you need. A lot of guys (myself included) seek ut a mismatched gun or a spare toggle train so we can shoot without risking damage. __________________ John 8:32 reive (riːv) vb (Military) (intr) dialect Scot and Northern English to go on a plundering raid [variant of reave] ˈreiver n e.g., " Some view the Border Reivers as loveable rogues."

03-26-2021, 10:41 AM	#6
spangy Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Sep 2020 Location: Winnipeg, Canada Posts: 617 Thanks: 3,065 Thanked 1,057 Times in 429 Posts	You have learned the hard way that firing a 106 year old #'s matching gun has its risks. Luger University tuition fees are not cheap either monetarily or emotionally This is every members nightmare and I am sorry that for you it is reality ... having said that I know you are at least in the right place ... people here have the know how and parts to help you and will without a doubt. Bill_in_VA's advice regarding a spare toggle set or a complete shooter is the way to go for many of us. Best wishes powerhouse. Greg __________________ Whoever said that "money can't buy you happiness" never bought a Luger. WTB - Take Down Lever & Trigger Plate (#90) for an Imperial Artillery.

02-07-2021, 03:29 AM	#2
Doubs User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Byron, Georgia Posts: 1,698 Thanks: 792 Thanked 1,687 Times in 554 Posts	Welcome to the forum and am sorry that your beloved Luger has a problem. For us to give the best advice, we'll need to see pictures of the gun, especially clear and sharp closeups of the problem area(s).

03-26-2021, 01:03 PM	#7
STEINBVG User Join Date: Jan 2021 Location: NEW JERSEY Posts: 143 Thanks: 117 Thanked 176 Times in 70 Posts	Nice advice from old timers It time Luger owner, with the input of old timers here, I carefully deliberated on the issue of shooting my ‘modern’ brand new Interarms Luger circa 1977 and obtained for it the whole separate shooter upper+ a modern magazine. Even though this new Luger can perhaps tolerate more abuse and is not as collectible as it,s older cousins , I would not want to break matching parts. It would be like undefeated Mike Tyson,s first loss... Never quite the same. GT , a gun smith here assisted me a great deal in doing that. Very happy with the outcome. The shooting experience is superb. Attached Thumbnails