Aimco Luger Failure to reset trigger

[1SGGetch]

Hey Folks,

Picked up an Aimco Luger and took it to the range today but ran into an issue. After loading and firing the first round, the weapon had a "dead" trigger and the only way it would fire was to cycle the action and then it would fire the third round of seven. At no time did it fire two shots in a row.
I took the weapon back to the bench and started comparing to my G-Date, of course, none of the parts are interchangeable so I couldn't change side-plates to see of that was it. So, in messing around with a lot of stuff I cycled the weapon with snap caps trying various things to get it to fire after the first cycle. I discovered that if I push the trigger slightly right to left I can hear a small click and the weapon resets. It wont reset pushing it forward and the trigger spring returns the trigger properly. Every time I push the trigger sideways left it resets the transfer bar.
Not being a gunsmith but having worked on everything from 9mm to 120mm I have a bit of skill but not a lot of courage with a pistol you cant get parts for.
Do any of our esteemed knowledgeable luger folks knw a fix for this?

1SGGetch

[G.T.]

Hi 1SGGetch, could be several things, but the most prevelent are, trigger is not coming all the way forward? Look as see if you can see light between the front of the trigger and trigger guard. You can probably reform the front loop part of the trigger to fit perfectly and maybe gain a few thousands there? The secone one, is the trigger /sear bar, is too far out, (toward the side plate) for the desconnector button to pop forward, (that's the little klick you hear when you let up on the trigger and everything works properly. You might be able to bend the trigger bare ever so slightly so it doesn't protrude out to far preventing the disconnector from working... Those are the two biggest issues with that particular problem... best, til.....lat'r....GT...

[1SGGetch]

GT

Not sure I have the confidence to do this. I tried taking material away from the pad that actuates the sear but I don't want to get too aggressive. I will snap a pic of the side-plate.







It is defiantly not resetting the sear until I put left lateral motion to the trigger. It will not reset forward as it well against the trigger guard, nor if I push right.

Could there be something up in the sear itself that if not working properly?

Getch

[G.T.]

I would not continue to remove any material, especially from the trigger lever, on the other hand, a little polishing won't hurt, but most likely won't cure it either? An assembly check I use primarily, is to assemble the frame assembly with the sideplate, less the upper receiver. I then, first, make sure the sideplate is both straight and square, and at the same time, tight to the frame as well? Then I squeeze the trigger all the way and see if the top/front, edge of the trigger lever is in line or paralell with the front / inside, edge of the side plate. If it is perfectly in line, that's all it can do, and we need to re-address the sear bar. A similar check is used for that. When you have the barreled receiver assembly off of the frame, check to see if the front outer edge of the sear bar, (the little plunger end) is even with the protective shelf just above it? If not, an adjustment is needed. I suspend the two ends of the sear bar across two blocks or high density plastic, and using another piece of plasitc, I tap the sear bar right at the relief / notch, for the pivot point of the sear bar! I generally start by bending the end of the sear bar IN towards the receiver, making it flush with the outer shelf edge, at rest, with the above mentioned referance shelf? too much? flip it over and go the other way, too little, flip it again. A few thousands will make a big difference. Go slow, tap lightly... best, til....lat'r....GT....
BTW, on the frame assembly, when doing the test for the trigger lever going out far enough, you can also check the lever return in the sideplate when the trigger is returned? It should go all the way back into the side plate to allow the disconnector to operate properly.Making adjustments in this area to the trigger lever require some additional skill sets that are not for the faint of heart! Annealing, re-forming, heat treating,and re-tempering of the trigger lever is what would be required?..

[1SGGetch]

G.T.

Taking yours and supernaht's advice I studied the problem and went through a lot of testing but what ended up fixing the issue was filing a bevel to the shoe that contacts the sear. What was happening is the spring loaded pin was getting captured by the arm and shoe and not allowing the arm to rest in its pocket on the side plate. By adding a bevel to the trailing edge now when the side comes forward and you release the trigger the sear pin can push by the lever returning it to its proper location in the side plate. Glad I persevered! I was getting pretty frustrated.

BTW, on Aimco Lugers the sear bar itself is actually pinned to the frame and the pin is "blind" so there seems to be no way to drive it out. I think I will end up flipping this because it seems if I break it I will never find replacement parts for these Texas guns.

1SGGetch

[G.T.]

Hi 1SSGetch, good Job! The bevel on the trigger lever is important! Good job narrowing in on the problem and the proper corrective effort! I also agree with the flipping decision, I have never had too much appreciation for the Stainless guns, although they were a pretty decent attempt at nice shooters... At least with a pre 1945 luger, you can at least throw parts at it, the problem, which i often do! Again, congrats! Best, til....lat'r....GT...