Little help, please

Roadkill · 10-24-2002, 10:57 PM

Several dumb questions to a couple of annoying problems I'm encountering:

1. How do I keep the .45 185g swc bullets from sticking to the die? Rns don't do it. Really aggravating.

2. How do I keep the decapping pins from hanging up in the 9mm primer holes and pulling out, jamming everything up? I have to use the large pins for the die I have.

3. The absolute pain in the a**, why won't winchester small pistol primers work in the feeding mechanism? CCIs were great, stack in about 25 or so, dropped right down, the Winchesters seem to be too long to be picked up by the cup on the arm, they hang up every time.

4. Is there a condition called "compulsive reloading disorder?" Think I got it.

5. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to nickel cases over brass ones?

rk

Johnny Peppers · 10-25-2002, 12:18 AM

RK,
What die are you having trouble with the 185gr. SWC's sticking to? I don't know what kind of lube your bullets are lubricated with, but most of the production bullet people use a heater on their lubrisizer and use a hard lube that doesn't stick to other bullets.
I have never had any trouble with the decapping pin hanging up in the primer hole. Is this on US manufactured brass? You might try polishing down your decapping pin with fine emery cloth.
You didn't get some of the round base primers with your reloading equipment did you? Most of the old reloading sets came with two different primer seating stems for the flat and round base primers. I still have some of the old round base primers left over from years ago.
Nickel cases work fine in pistol reloading, but avoid them for rifle reloading.

Hugh · 10-25-2002, 12:21 AM

RK,

Welcome to the CDR club! You can get a different seating stem that has a cup shaped for the semi-wadcutter so that they won't get jammed in the seater.

You can get a different sized stem for your die that will take the small decapping pin.

Brass cases are easier to resize as they are softer than the nickel plating.

As you can see, reloading is a bottomless bucket that consumes "Luger money"!
<img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" />

unspellable · 10-25-2002, 08:41 AM

It has been my experience that nickle plated cases do not last as long as plain brass ones. They will begin to develope neck cracks before the plain brass ones do.

Roadkill · 10-25-2002, 12:30 PM

Thanks all, excellent advice. I'm using a mix of equipment, as previously mentioned it was all given to me, .45s are definitely harder to load than 9mms, just have to pay more attention and use a lot of "feel" in the process. I'll clean out the bullet seater die, leave the nickel cases alone, polish and tighten up the decapper pin, I learned to stay away from military brass after really messing up some dies, still am frustated over the primer feeder system. Its all old (1970s) equipment so I'll clean it real well and try it again. I just ordered a set of .38/.357 dies so I'll try that next, will pick up my Colt .357 Trooper later today. (Love these Alabama gun laws, called this morning, put my name of the gun, 20 minutes from in the door and out with the gun)

Rk

Doubs · 10-25-2002, 12:39 PM

RK, military brass generally causes a problem because of the primer crimp which makes replacement of the primer almost impossible without screwing up the new primer. RCBS makes a primer swaging kit that removes the crimp ring and makes mil-surp brass just as easy to reload as any other brass. I've had the kit for years and it's paid for itself more than a few times.

one gunner · 10-25-2002, 09:52 PM

If you are reloading and not using a carbine sizer die never, ever use nickle plated cases. The nickle will rub off inside the die and then start to put deep scratches in your cases.

This Is why I always use carbide pistol dies and if I am loading rifle cases I throw all nickle plated rifle cases right in the trash.

I do realize that Hornady has come out with a nitrade coated type of reloading die. Perhaps these might be more resistant to nickle plated cases than plain steel dies.

Edmond , DCB shooting · 11-04-2002, 04:29 PM

Hi, nickel cases cracking comes from hydrogen being trapped below nickel coating and escaping. I suggest using copper coated bullets, it does not wear out the barrel, is more practical than lead to handle and has no toxic fumes when shot. for the dies , if you use lead , I suggest using Dillon precision New Dimension dies, before to switch to copper coated bullets, I found really practical to " unclip " the internal part of dies and clean up lead without touching to critical dies adjustments.

10-24-2002, 10:57 PM	#1
Roadkill User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,632 Thanks: 1 Thanked 28 Times in 17 Posts	Little help, please Several dumb questions to a couple of annoying problems I'm encountering: 1. How do I keep the .45 185g swc bullets from sticking to the die? Rns don't do it. Really aggravating. 2. How do I keep the decapping pins from hanging up in the 9mm primer holes and pulling out, jamming everything up? I have to use the large pins for the die I have. 3. The absolute pain in the a**, why won't winchester small pistol primers work in the feeding mechanism? CCIs were great, stack in about 25 or so, dropped right down, the Winchesters seem to be too long to be picked up by the cup on the arm, they hang up every time. 4. Is there a condition called "compulsive reloading disorder?" Think I got it. 5. Are there any advantages/disadvantages to nickel cases over brass ones? rk

10-25-2002, 12:21 AM	#3
Hugh RIP Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Southeast Texas Swamp Posts: 2,460 Thanks: 2 Thanked 165 Times in 64 Posts	RK, Welcome to the CDR club! You can get a different seating stem that has a cup shaped for the semi-wadcutter so that they won't get jammed in the seater. You can get a different sized stem for your die that will take the small decapping pin. Brass cases are easier to resize as they are softer than the nickel plating. As you can see, reloading is a bottomless bucket that consumes "Luger money"! <img src="graemlins/c.gif" border="0" alt="[ouch]" /> __________________ *TRUMP FOR PREZ IN '20!*

11-04-2002, 04:29 PM	#8
Edmond , DCB shooting User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: FRANCE Posts: 53 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Hi, nickel cases cracking comes from hydrogen being trapped below nickel coating and escaping. I suggest using copper coated bullets, it does not wear out the barrel, is more practical than lead to handle and has no toxic fumes when shot. for the dies , if you use lead , I suggest using Dillon precision New Dimension dies, before to switch to copper coated bullets, I found really practical to " unclip " the internal part of dies and clean up lead without touching to critical dies adjustments. __________________ Shoot'in by DCB

10-25-2002, 12:18 AM	#2
Johnny Peppers User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Calion, Arkansas Posts: 1,042 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	RK, What die are you having trouble with the 185gr. SWC's sticking to? I don't know what kind of lube your bullets are lubricated with, but most of the production bullet people use a heater on their lubrisizer and use a hard lube that doesn't stick to other bullets. I have never had any trouble with the decapping pin hanging up in the primer hole. Is this on US manufactured brass? You might try polishing down your decapping pin with fine emery cloth. You didn't get some of the round base primers with your reloading equipment did you? Most of the old reloading sets came with two different primer seating stems for the flat and round base primers. I still have some of the old round base primers left over from years ago. Nickel cases work fine in pistol reloading, but avoid them for rifle reloading.

10-25-2002, 08:41 AM	#4
unspellable User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Iowa Posts: 768 Thanks: 0 Thanked 19 Times in 11 Posts	It has been my experience that nickle plated cases do not last as long as plain brass ones. They will begin to develope neck cracks before the plain brass ones do.

10-25-2002, 12:30 PM	#5
Roadkill User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,632 Thanks: 1 Thanked 28 Times in 17 Posts	Thanks all, excellent advice. I'm using a mix of equipment, as previously mentioned it was all given to me, .45s are definitely harder to load than 9mms, just have to pay more attention and use a lot of "feel" in the process. I'll clean out the bullet seater die, leave the nickel cases alone, polish and tighten up the decapper pin, I learned to stay away from military brass after really messing up some dies, still am frustated over the primer feeder system. Its all old (1970s) equipment so I'll clean it real well and try it again. I just ordered a set of .38/.357 dies so I'll try that next, will pick up my Colt .357 Trooper later today. (Love these Alabama gun laws, called this morning, put my name of the gun, 20 minutes from in the door and out with the gun) Rk

10-25-2002, 12:39 PM	#6
Doubs User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Byron, Georgia Posts: 1,700 Thanks: 792 Thanked 1,692 Times in 555 Posts	RK, military brass generally causes a problem because of the primer crimp which makes replacement of the primer almost impossible without screwing up the new primer. RCBS makes a primer swaging kit that removes the crimp ring and makes mil-surp brass just as easy to reload as any other brass. I've had the kit for years and it's paid for itself more than a few times.

10-25-2002, 09:52 PM	#7
one gunner User Join Date: Aug 2002 Posts: 25 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	If you are reloading and not using a carbine sizer die never, ever use nickle plated cases. The nickle will rub off inside the die and then start to put deep scratches in your cases. This Is why I always use carbide pistol dies and if I am loading rifle cases I throw all nickle plated rifle cases right in the trash. I do realize that Hornady has come out with a nitrade coated type of reloading die. Perhaps these might be more resistant to nickle plated cases than plain steel dies.