how to tell rework from original

oceanica · 03-20-2005, 03:57 PM

Hello all: OK, I've been bit by the bug. I am a shooter, so far, not really a collector. I just bought a 1920 commercial in .30 and got what I think is a good price for a 95% or better pistol all around. My question is this. When it arrives I would like to have any tips for telling if there are any replacement parts or if the gun has been reworked. I have been told all serial numbers match ( show in pictures ), and other than this is there anything else? If I field strip it, anything more to look for? Thanks, Mark

Edward Tinker · 03-20-2005, 05:52 PM

Mark, welcome to the forum!

Lots of clues, ensure that it is all matching. Firing pin, breechblock, check the grips, etc. As a commerical it will or should be in the commerical, i.e. hidden manner... But 1920 Commercials also were reworks of old military from WW1.

So look for those clues too, i.e. serial numbering not in the commerical manner, old proofs from imperial, etc.

To tell reblue;
Look for bangs, nicks, etc., that have been reblued over them.
Look for rounded edges, where it was reblued by bob the gunsmith and not a actual arsenal.

Ed

PS: you'll hear this again and again, but books and studying is the most important thing. Buy Still's books, buy the era you are interested in and study the luger forums for all of the information.

Roadkill · 03-20-2005, 06:03 PM

Post good pictures. These folks will know.

rgg

DougT · 03-20-2005, 07:07 PM

Oceanica, another important factor is who did you buy the gun from and are they reputable.
DougT

Ron Smith · 03-20-2005, 07:12 PM

Mark, If you are a shooter, then you will like the .30 Luger. Very accurate and fun to shoot.

Ron

03-20-2005, 03:57 PM	#1
oceanica User Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	how to tell rework from original Hello all: OK, I've been bit by the bug. I am a shooter, so far, not really a collector. I just bought a 1920 commercial in .30 and got what I think is a good price for a 95% or better pistol all around. My question is this. When it arrives I would like to have any tips for telling if there are any replacement parts or if the gun has been reworked. I have been told all serial numbers match ( show in pictures ), and other than this is there anything else? If I field strip it, anything more to look for? Thanks, Mark

03-20-2005, 07:12 PM	#5
Ron Smith User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Orygun Posts: 4,243 Thanks: 118 Thanked 245 Times in 150 Posts	Mark, If you are a shooter, then you will like the .30 Luger. Very accurate and fun to shoot. Ron __________________ I Still Need DWM side plate #49... if anyone runs across a nice one. What ~Rudyard Kipling~ said...

03-20-2005, 05:52 PM	#2
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,935 Thanks: 2,034 Thanked 4,533 Times in 2,093 Posts	Mark, welcome to the forum! Lots of clues, ensure that it is all matching. Firing pin, breechblock, check the grips, etc. As a commerical it will or should be in the commerical, i.e. hidden manner... But 1920 Commercials also were reworks of old military from WW1. So look for those clues too, i.e. serial numbering not in the commerical manner, old proofs from imperial, etc. To tell reblue; Look for bangs, nicks, etc., that have been reblued over them. Look for rounded edges, where it was reblued by bob the gunsmith and not a actual arsenal. Ed PS: you'll hear this again and again, but books and studying is the most important thing. Buy Still's books, buy the era you are interested in and study the luger forums for all of the information.

03-20-2005, 06:03 PM	#3
Roadkill User Join Date: Jun 2002 Posts: 1,632 Thanks: 1 Thanked 28 Times in 17 Posts	Post good pictures. These folks will know. rgg

03-20-2005, 07:07 PM	#4
DougT User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: So. Cal. Posts: 171 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Oceanica, another important factor is who did you buy the gun from and are they reputable. DougT