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12-01-2006, 02:35 AM | #1 |
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Which one would you buy????
Dear Forum:
Well, my due diligence is apparently starting to pay off as I continue looking for my first â??shooter.â? I now find myself having to choose between two pistols. The first is a â??42 BYF. The second is a 1917 DWM. Both guns are similarly priced ($795 - $825) and from what I can tell are in generally similar condition which is to say 25-30% blue and no straw to speak of. Aside from differences in color, the grips appear to be in about the same condition. Although each seller describes their respective bore as â??good,â? I know the term, â??goodâ? is very subjective. Finally, each of the sellers has inferred that all the serial numbers match (with the exception of the magazines). This Saturday Iâ??ll be taking a look at the â??42 BYF. And late next week Iâ??ll probably get a chance to inspect the 1917 DWM. The first thing Iâ??m going to look at is the bore (Iâ??m even bringing my own 9mm rod and cleaning solution so I can get the crud out). Iâ??m also going to check for pitting on any exposed metal parts and see if the hold-open works. Finally, if theyâ??ll let me take the gun apart, Iâ??ll try to see how many serial numbers actually match. Keeping in mind that that which ever Luger I buy will be given a complete make-over, which gun would be your first choice to purchase and why? (Assume that there are no major differences in condition between the guns). Finally, what other pointers should I keep in mind when I inspect the guns? Are there any peculiarities specific to either pistol that I need to know about? As always, thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Dave in TN. Eventually, Iâ??ll post pictures of which ever gun I buy so you can all say, â??Boy, did the new guy ever get ripped off!â? |
12-01-2006, 03:01 AM | #2 |
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Depends on the era you prefer, i would go for the 1917 DWM as it has more history.
Some same that the mauser would be a better choice as a shooter at has newer meterolgical improvements since 1917. Prices seem a bit high for almost no-blue guns. I am not a "bore" guy, even if it is as a shooter, a sparkeling nice bore does not equate to accuaracy. I do like a nice bore, but when I buy, barely glance down it, I am more interested in the correct barrel, markings and configuration. Ed
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12-01-2006, 04:48 AM | #3 |
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Dave,
If the purpose is strictly to shoot, I would lean toward the byf. I have used the "better metallurgy" reasoning in the past, and still think it has merit, but there are correspondents here who put no credence in this. Objectively, the byf has 28 years less use on it than the 1917. I suggest that you ask the seller permisson to dry-fire the gun--perhaps pick up some snap caps to take along. All other things being equal, for shooting consider the trigger pull characteristics as a major factor and buy the one whose trigger pull you prefer. I agree with Ed that the prices look pretty high for a Luger in the condition you describe. --Dwight |
12-01-2006, 07:31 AM | #4 |
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You both raise interesting points... I like the idea about the better metalurgy and the "less use" for the newer gun. Here's a photo of the BYF for you to see.
Here is the exact quote from the seller's description: "Serial number stamped on the front of the frame is 392 which is also stamped on the left side of the slide. Last two digits 92, are stamped on the other parts throughout the gun. The barrel is 4" long and is mounted with a serrated blade front sight. The gun is mostly gray but with about 30% original blue finish, mostly in protected areas. Edges and corners are fairly sharp and the markings are excellent. Two piece checkered walnut grips show only light wear. The magazine included is not marked with a serial number but is marked "fxo" with a plastic plug which is correct for this gun. Action works perfectly. German proof marks are stamped on the right side of the slide and also on the right side of the barrel. Overall condition is very good plus." Unfortunately, there is no left side photo.... |
12-01-2006, 07:53 AM | #5 |
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Dave,
It appears to be in good mechanical condition. I do not detect any pitting from the small picture above. Someone suggested that you try dry firing with snap-caps or other such non-live ammo. Good idea. Cycle the action as much as possible to look for any drag or unevenness in the operation. I believe you stated you would go to see the gun on Saturday. Ask the dealer to allow you to disassemble the gun. I have seen Lugers that had a takedown lever problem such that a screwdriver (crude) was required to rotate the part. While the Luger is disassembled, look for damage or pitting. Get a good picture of the left side. Side plates are often mismatched and/or pitted. The material in the magazine bottom is much like Bakelite and is very hard and BRITTLE. Check for chipouts. These do not affect the functionality, of course, but they degrade the appearance of the gun. Best of luck. Luke
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12-01-2006, 08:06 AM | #6 |
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Dave,
I find the mark where the toggle hits the receiver as an indication of how many rounds that has gone trough it.. perhaps that could be worth checking out. It looks like a nice byf.. You where talking of a 'total makeover', would that include reblueing?
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12-01-2006, 08:23 AM | #7 |
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Chances are very good that the byf model has fired a lot fewer rounds than one that was manufactured and issued in 1917... For a shooter class gun, I would go with the byf if everything else is equal...
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12-01-2006, 10:46 AM | #8 |
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It's difficult to evaluate from the photo but it looks as if it's better than 30%. I would go with the byf for a shooter for the reasons stated by the other members, and the price is better. If there is no letter suffix on the gun it has a nice low serial number.
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12-01-2006, 11:24 AM | #9 |
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I can't believe the bogus info you getting here......buy both and be double happy!!!!
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12-01-2006, 12:57 PM | #10 |
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Dave,
If possible, always try to get a photo of the other side of a luger and even of the front and rear grip straps. Also, have them describe the gun's bore condition for you. Inquire about their inspection and return policy as well and who "absorbs" the shipping costs, both or one way, if they gun is not as advertised, etc. |
12-01-2006, 02:40 PM | #11 |
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"...bogus info..."
Howard, I suspect that Dave would find it useful if you could be a little more specific. --Dwight |
12-01-2006, 05:57 PM | #12 |
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buy 'em both.....
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12-02-2006, 12:29 AM | #13 |
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Friday Night Status Report:
Sorry to disappoint but when I called the seller this afternoon to let him know I would be coming over Saturday morning to look at the BYF, I was told that it had been sold earlier in the weekâ?¦. Itâ??s good that I called, otherwise I would have driven nearly 300 miles for nothing. As for the 1917 DWM, I may put that gun on hold for a few days (watch this one get away from me tooâ?¦.) until I decide whether or not to stick with later model pistols. Thus the search continuesâ?¦ In the meantime I want you all to know how much I appreciate your valuable suggestions and tips. Iâ??m getting a great â??education.â? Hopefully when the right Luger comes along, Iâ??ll have enough sense to recognize it. Have a safe weekend and stay warm! Dave in TN. |
12-02-2006, 08:38 AM | #14 |
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From the pictures and the prices, the guns looks like they are certainly worth looking into. They may be more than meerly shooters. The age of the Luger may not be a good indicator of the guns prior usage or care, so look at both Lugers. At this point, you really have to physically see and shoot them to know. But the above mentioned points are good for when examining the gun.
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