First luger 30 Cal / How to lock back action???

ptrickamp222 · 10-17-2010, 04:20 AM

I was looking at the field strip and how do you lock the action into battery where it stays locked back???? My pistol with the original clip will not stay back. Is it the clip or am I doing something wrong. I now nothing of the luger just 1911's and Browning's I and III's. From my previous thread I just picked up a excellent condition 1925 export model. Thanks for any input.

Edward Tinker · 10-17-2010, 06:19 AM

Depends on two things;

1. Does it have a hold open installed? (it should)

2. Magazine just does not cause it to work right

Ed

FNorm · 10-17-2010, 09:13 AM

Let's start with this: With the receiver (barrel assembly) off the frame, insert the empty mag. Do you see a little lever popping up? The spring et al, is along the inside of the rt. frame, the hold open bar is across the frame just behind the mag well. The follower button on the mag is what pushes everything up.

FN

calibrator · 10-17-2010, 01:13 PM

Nice looking pistol from your previous pictures. You do NOT need to lock the toggle back to field strip. Early Lugers did not have the hold-open feature and some were later converted for such (so I've read). Just remove the magazine, switch the safety to OFF (check for EMPTY chamber), grasp toggle with the right index and middle fingers with thumb on the lanyard ring and pull 1/2 way back while holding barrel with left hand use left thumb to rotate take-down lever and pull it out. Assemble in reverse manner. The condition of the TD lever spring can make lever removal and reassembly difficult sometimes. YMMV Joe

ptrickamp222 · 10-17-2010, 01:58 PM

The locking mechanism is there. It was the old clip with the wood base that was not going all the way up to engage the mechanism to the bolt. I can push up on the clip and the lever will stay back. Did a field strip of what you suggested and all is there and works. I will definitely have to get after market mags as not to harm the original wood one. Value loss at least. This pistol has not been fired I believe at all maybe a few times. The blueing on the feed ramp is still there. No feed marks. Should I get brass, bullets, primers and poweder and have fun.....or should I leave it the way it is for Value as an investment or just a pistol that is 90 years old that has not been fired but a few times at best. There is holster wear. If not for that this would be a museum piece. The main spring is so strong that it takes two hands to hold it back. It would definitely take the high end of the powder range to cycle the pistol. Also can you dry fire the pistol with no harm?????? Like a 45 auto the firing pin hits a spring and not metal to metal?????? I have a lot to learn on this one. Great Forum!!!!! Where are a few sites that sell mags for the 30 cal.???????? Any info for mags and reloading would be great....if that's OK on this site. Most of my old sites for 45 and 9mm have bullets and brass.

FNorm · 10-17-2010, 10:20 PM

Glad to hear you figured it out. Dry firing is not recommended. Get some snap caps. To close the action without setting the trigger/firing pin, slowly close the action, holding it back. About 3 / 8 in before the breech is closed squeeze the trigger and hold it.

There are period mags for sale from some forum members. Put a WTB in the classifieds. Luger 7.65 and 9mm take the same mag.

Fiocchi (sp?) makes a 7.65. The bigger places like Midway and Cabelas usually have it.

FN

FNorm · 10-17-2010, 10:30 PM

PS: I recommend you thoroughly clean everything. Especially the inside of the firing pin, and the breach cavity that holds it. Also under the extractor. Amazing the amount of grime in these places.

see: http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/

FN

ptrickamp222 · 10-17-2010, 11:27 PM

Right now I am soaking the inside of the barrel with Nitro solvent. I want to clean it real good to see what I have. I shoot custom 45 auto's and a custom browning 9mm. So I have a good idea of what to clean but this is a sure different animal. I shoot clays in my 45's for the soft recoil for target and when I shot metal. I could go 500 rounds between cleanings. Springer Custom shop and a les Bear. The 9mm was customed at Novak's. I shoot Tight Group. Also changed out the main springs for the light loads. This Luger is one fine made pistole' Thanks for any input!!! My 48th Lyman manual has some loads for it. What is recommened for the 30 Cal. I was thinking of maybe W231 or Unique, bullseye......that way I could try it in my others.

ptrickamp222 · 10-17-2010, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by FNorm

PS: I recommend you thoroughly clean everything. Especially the inside of the firing pin, and the breach cavity that holds it. Also under the extractor. Amazing the amount of grime in these places.

see: http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/

FN

Nice Video's, Thanks!!!

10-17-2010, 04:20 AM	#1
ptrickamp222 User Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	First luger 30 Cal / How to lock back action??? I was looking at the field strip and how do you lock the action into battery where it stays locked back???? My pistol with the original clip will not stay back. Is it the clip or am I doing something wrong. I now nothing of the luger just 1911's and Browning's I and III's. From my previous thread I just picked up a excellent condition 1925 export model. Thanks for any input.

10-17-2010, 06:19 AM	#2
Edward Tinker Super Moderator Eternal Lifer LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: North of Spokane, WA Posts: 15,935 Thanks: 2,033 Thanked 4,533 Times in 2,093 Posts	Depends on two things; 1. Does it have a hold open installed? (it should) 2. Magazine just does not cause it to work right Ed __________________ Edward Tinker ************ Co-Author of Police Lugers - Co-Author of Simson Lugers Author of Veteran Bring Backs Vol I, Vol II, Vol III and Vol IV

10-17-2010, 01:58 PM	#5
ptrickamp222 User Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Regarding slide not staying locked The locking mechanism is there. It was the old clip with the wood base that was not going all the way up to engage the mechanism to the bolt. I can push up on the clip and the lever will stay back. Did a field strip of what you suggested and all is there and works. I will definitely have to get after market mags as not to harm the original wood one. Value loss at least. This pistol has not been fired I believe at all maybe a few times. The blueing on the feed ramp is still there. No feed marks. Should I get brass, bullets, primers and poweder and have fun.....or should I leave it the way it is for Value as an investment or just a pistol that is 90 years old that has not been fired but a few times at best. There is holster wear. If not for that this would be a museum piece. The main spring is so strong that it takes two hands to hold it back. It would definitely take the high end of the powder range to cycle the pistol. Also can you dry fire the pistol with no harm?????? Like a 45 auto the firing pin hits a spring and not metal to metal?????? I have a lot to learn on this one. Great Forum!!!!! Where are a few sites that sell mags for the 30 cal.???????? Any info for mags and reloading would be great....if that's OK on this site. Most of my old sites for 45 and 9mm have bullets and brass.

10-17-2010, 10:20 PM	#6
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	Glad to hear you figured it out. Dry firing is not recommended. Get some snap caps. To close the action without setting the trigger/firing pin, slowly close the action, holding it back. About 3 / 8 in before the breech is closed squeeze the trigger and hold it. There are period mags for sale from some forum members. Put a WTB in the classifieds. Luger 7.65 and 9mm take the same mag. Fiocchi (sp?) makes a 7.65. The bigger places like Midway and Cabelas usually have it. FN Last edited by FNorm; 10-17-2010 at 10:34 PM. Reason: add

10-17-2010, 11:27 PM	#8
ptrickamp222 User Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 60 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Cleaning Right now I am soaking the inside of the barrel with Nitro solvent. I want to clean it real good to see what I have. I shoot custom 45 auto's and a custom browning 9mm. So I have a good idea of what to clean but this is a sure different animal. I shoot clays in my 45's for the soft recoil for target and when I shot metal. I could go 500 rounds between cleanings. Springer Custom shop and a les Bear. The 9mm was customed at Novak's. I shoot Tight Group. Also changed out the main springs for the light loads. This Luger is one fine made pistole' Thanks for any input!!! My 48th Lyman manual has some loads for it. What is recommened for the 30 Cal. I was thinking of maybe W231 or Unique, bullseye......that way I could try it in my others.

10-17-2010, 09:13 AM	#3
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	Let's start with this: With the receiver (barrel assembly) off the frame, insert the empty mag. Do you see a little lever popping up? The spring et al, is along the inside of the rt. frame, the hold open bar is across the frame just behind the mag well. The follower button on the mag is what pushes everything up. FN

10-17-2010, 01:13 PM	#4
calibrator User Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cave Creek Posts: 315 Thanks: 55 Thanked 242 Times in 92 Posts	Nice looking pistol from your previous pictures. You do NOT need to lock the toggle back to field strip. Early Lugers did not have the hold-open feature and some were later converted for such (so I've read). Just remove the magazine, switch the safety to OFF (check for EMPTY chamber), grasp toggle with the right index and middle fingers with thumb on the lanyard ring and pull 1/2 way back while holding barrel with left hand use left thumb to rotate take-down lever and pull it out. Assemble in reverse manner. The condition of the TD lever spring can make lever removal and reassembly difficult sometimes. YMMV Joe

10-17-2010, 10:30 PM	#7
FNorm Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Colorado Posts: 978 Thanks: 68 Thanked 127 Times in 108 Posts	PS: I recommend you thoroughly clean everything. Especially the inside of the firing pin, and the breach cavity that holds it. Also under the extractor. Amazing the amount of grime in these places. see: http://www.wonderhowto.com/search/luger/ FN