Clear Cutting Board Mineral Oil instead of Tung or Linseed?

flomofo · 12-14-2011, 12:19 PM

I cleaned my grips up a bit but am leaving them a bit dirty or tarnished as restoring anything on my gun was not the goal.

I want it to still look as close to how it should from the factory however, and to preserve that could I use that clear cutting board oil sold at places like Home Depot to protect the grips without adding any color?

That or just leave them be after cleaning, although it looks like even rain would stain these things without some protectant applied.

ithacaartist · 12-14-2011, 01:28 PM

Flo,
Here's the scoop on finishes.

Anything that "wets" and penetrates the top layer of wood will make it look darker and richer. Water, of course, evaporates completely and you're right back looking at raw wood, with the addition of raised grain wherever the water has swelled it. This is why we finish wood, to stabilize and protect its structure.

An oil "finish" would result from using something like linseed oil, Danish oil, Brazilian rose oil, etc., which over time lose their volatiles to evaporation, leaving a cohesive substance behind. Like any other finish, the solids that remain behind dictate its characteristics, which can range from hard to downright gummy.

If you don't want to darken your grips any more than the minimum, then use as clear finish as you can find, but don't forget finished wood looks "wet" and darker than raw.

If in doubt, try your proposed finish first on a scrap of similar raw color. I'd recommend a light coat of something rather than let then go raw, which leaves them open to degradation by water and oxygen.

David Parker

flomofo · 12-14-2011, 09:38 PM

Thank you that helps.

I have searched different threads with various products being used but was wondering what most closely matches what was done from factory.

I assume they used some sort of oil at the factory, but if not then I would be interested in proceeding with as clear an oil as possible.

DavidJayUden · 12-14-2011, 10:34 PM

If all else fails just dilute Linseed Oil with a bit of thinner and it will not do much at all.
dju

Mauser720 · 12-14-2011, 11:01 PM

flomoflo -

I have some of that "food grade" oil you put on a wooden cutting board. For what it's worth, it does darken the wood slightly after you put a few drops on and rub it into the wood with your fingertips. So I imagine it might slightly darken wooden grips too.

alanint · 12-14-2011, 11:22 PM

My personal opinion is that anything that is "human safe" is going to be weak and innefective in preserving your Luger grips. Get some real preservatives. Especially the ones that were in production when your pistol was new.

DavidJayUden · 12-14-2011, 11:45 PM

My personal opinion is that anything that is "human safe" is going to be weak and innefective in preserving your Luger grips. Get some real preservatives. Especially the ones that were in production when your pistol was new.

Such as?
dju

Ron Wood · 12-15-2011, 03:03 AM

Boiled linseed oil applied sparingly. Raw linseed oil will not dry and gets gummy (although I have never tried thinning it with paint thinner).

alanint · 12-15-2011, 07:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DavidJayUden

My personal opinion is that anything that is "human safe" is going to be weak and innefective in preserving your Luger grips. Get some real preservatives. Especially the ones that were in production when your pistol was new.

Such as?
dju

Hmmm, Cutting Board oil........

ithacaartist · 12-15-2011, 01:14 PM

My dad preserved his ladders (never paint a ladder; only clear coat to allow for inspection of its structure's soundness) with the raw linseed oil which had been thinned somewhat. The ladders did eventually dry, but they were gummy for quite a long time. I think this approach because the longer cure time would allow for deeper penetration--something you'd want to maximize for something wood that is periodically exposed to the elements. I'd rule out the raw.

Brush on a light application of the boiled linseed oil, and after it sits for ten or fifteen minutes, remove all the excess you can with a clean towel, alternated with brushing out the grooves with a paint brush. Set aside to dry after the final wipe. If your towel is white, you can check your progress as you go,by examining what comes off, or not, onto the towel. This will seal the outer surface of the wood, yet leave it the lightest color possible, and least like it has a "finish" on it.

Seems to me I've heard the boiled linseed oil touted as the original factory treatment? Tung oil, etc. could be applied in the same way with the same results.

Stay away from any vegetable oil, as they turn rancid.

flomofo · 12-15-2011, 02:45 PM

Thanks guys, I'll save that clear stuff for the kitchen wood then.

I'll try and buy the boiled linseed oil today.

I know some people really like the tung oil instead, would that be my best bet then for protecting the wood while limiting how dark the grips become?

I still have one grip which came out lighter than the other when cleaning using the often touted method here.

Trying to figure out if the wood is just darker on one grip or if I want to dunk both grips until they are completely clean, then just handle them enough to get them looking old like they should

12-14-2011, 12:19 PM	#1
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Clear Cutting Board Mineral Oil instead of Tung or Linseed? I cleaned my grips up a bit but am leaving them a bit dirty or tarnished as restoring anything on my gun was not the goal. I want it to still look as close to how it should from the factory however, and to preserve that could I use that clear cutting board oil sold at places like Home Depot to protect the grips without adding any color? That or just leave them be after cleaning, although it looks like even rain would stain these things without some protectant applied.

12-14-2011, 09:38 PM	#3
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	... Thank you that helps. I have searched different threads with various products being used but was wondering what most closely matches what was done from factory. I assume they used some sort of oil at the factory, but if not then I would be interested in proceeding with as clear an oil as possible.

12-14-2011, 11:01 PM	#5
Mauser720 User Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 535 Thanks: 18 Thanked 49 Times in 33 Posts	flomoflo - I have some of that "food grade" oil you put on a wooden cutting board. For what it's worth, it does darken the wood slightly after you put a few drops on and rub it into the wood with your fingertips. So I imagine it might slightly darken wooden grips too. __________________ Mauser720 - Ron "Those who do not know history are doomed to repeat it."

12-15-2011, 03:03 AM	#8
Ron Wood Moderator 2010 LugerForum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Santa Teresa New Mexico just outside of the West Texas town of El Paso Posts: 7,022 Thanks: 1,090 Thanked 5,179 Times in 1,703 Posts	Boiled linseed oil applied sparingly. Raw linseed oil will not dry and gets gummy (although I have never tried thinning it with paint thinner). __________________ If it's made after 1918...it's a reproduction

12-15-2011, 02:45 PM	#11
flomofo User Join Date: Nov 2011 Posts: 18 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Oil Thanks guys, I'll save that clear stuff for the kitchen wood then. I'll try and buy the boiled linseed oil today. I know some people really like the tung oil instead, would that be my best bet then for protecting the wood while limiting how dark the grips become? I still have one grip which came out lighter than the other when cleaning using the often touted method here. Trying to figure out if the wood is just darker on one grip or if I want to dunk both grips until they are completely clean, then just handle them enough to get them looking old like they should

12-14-2011, 01:28 PM	#2
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,347 Thanks: 7,292 Thanked 2,579 Times in 1,366 Posts	Flo, Here's the scoop on finishes. Anything that "wets" and penetrates the top layer of wood will make it look darker and richer. Water, of course, evaporates completely and you're right back looking at raw wood, with the addition of raised grain wherever the water has swelled it. This is why we finish wood, to stabilize and protect its structure. An oil "finish" would result from using something like linseed oil, Danish oil, Brazilian rose oil, etc., which over time lose their volatiles to evaporation, leaving a cohesive substance behind. Like any other finish, the solids that remain behind dictate its characteristics, which can range from hard to downright gummy. If you don't want to darken your grips any more than the minimum, then use as clear finish as you can find, but don't forget finished wood looks "wet" and darker than raw. If in doubt, try your proposed finish first on a scrap of similar raw color. I'd recommend a light coat of something rather than let then go raw, which leaves them open to degradation by water and oxygen. David Parker

12-14-2011, 10:34 PM	#4
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	If all else fails just dilute Linseed Oil with a bit of thinner and it will not do much at all. dju

12-14-2011, 11:22 PM	#6
alanint User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Marco Island, Florida Posts: 4,867 Thanks: 1,685 Thanked 1,916 Times in 1,192 Posts	My personal opinion is that anything that is "human safe" is going to be weak and innefective in preserving your Luger grips. Get some real preservatives. Especially the ones that were in production when your pistol was new.

12-14-2011, 11:45 PM	#7
DavidJayUden Patron LugerForum Patron Join Date: Nov 2008 Posts: 4,047 Thanks: 578 Thanked 1,414 Times in 887 Posts	My personal opinion is that anything that is "human safe" is going to be weak and innefective in preserving your Luger grips. Get some real preservatives. Especially the ones that were in production when your pistol was new. Such as? dju

12-15-2011, 01:14 PM	#10
ithacaartist Twice a Lifer Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Atop the highest hill in Schuyler County NY Posts: 3,347 Thanks: 7,292 Thanked 2,579 Times in 1,366 Posts	My dad preserved his ladders (never paint a ladder; only clear coat to allow for inspection of its structure's soundness) with the raw linseed oil which had been thinned somewhat. The ladders did eventually dry, but they were gummy for quite a long time. I think this approach because the longer cure time would allow for deeper penetration--something you'd want to maximize for something wood that is periodically exposed to the elements. I'd rule out the raw. Brush on a light application of the boiled linseed oil, and after it sits for ten or fifteen minutes, remove all the excess you can with a clean towel, alternated with brushing out the grooves with a paint brush. Set aside to dry after the final wipe. If your towel is white, you can check your progress as you go,by examining what comes off, or not, onto the towel. This will seal the outer surface of the wood, yet leave it the lightest color possible, and least like it has a "finish" on it. Seems to me I've heard the boiled linseed oil touted as the original factory treatment? Tung oil, etc. could be applied in the same way with the same results. Stay away from any vegetable oil, as they turn rancid.