Heavy trigger on 1914 DWM Police 9mm

[shinji_ikari]

Yesterday I got the above described Luger and when I got home I realized the trigger has a mushy trigger that I have to pull hard enough that it feels like it is against the frame before it will break/fire.

I am thinking that I will buy a wolf string rehab kit and change the trigger spring and try that first.

Any other suggestions or recommendations?

[Karl]

Stephen,

I think it unlikely that the trigger spring has anything to do with the long, mushy problem you describe, with the trigger against the frame before it releases. Note that many lugers have a longish and heavy trigger pull. I suggest that you inspect the train of elements between the trigger and the sear bar. The side plate assembly is a possible problem area.

Karl

[Edward Tinker]

I have had mushy triggers like yours. Besides cleaning them up, maybe changing a spring, it usualy stays about the same. But the trigger moves the sideplate lever to against the sear bar, so three parts all involved.

[Doubs]

Put a piece of masking tape on the top of the lower L-arm where it slips under the trigger. That will increase the thickness of the L-arm and the upper L-arm will be pushed in farther at the top. It may require two thicknesses of masking tape but it should release the firing pin sooner as the trigger is depressed. If that improves your trigger pull then add a little JB Weld to the lower L-arm and file it down until the trigger pull is as you want it.

[Mac Cat]

I wondered if someone replaced the side plate.

I like the idea of wrapping a little tape around the L-arm.

[shinji_ikari]

Originally Posted by Doubs

Put a piece of masking tape on the top of the lower L-arm where it slips under the trigger. That will increase the thickness of the L-arm and the upper L-arm will be pushed in farther at the top. It may require two thicknesses of masking tape but it should release the firing pin sooner as the trigger is depressed. If that improves your trigger pull then add a little JB Weld to the lower L-arm and file it down until the trigger pull is as you want it.

I can try the masking tap trick. As for JB weld, I think I would buy another of the 'L' pieces and try it with the 'new' one that way I could always swap the original back if I ever decide to sell it, though I tend not to do that.

Thank you!

[Karl]

Stephen,

Mac Cat brings up a good point. If the side plate is not original to the gun then that could be the source of the very long trigger pull. The side plate is fitted to the gun. It must fit tightly against the frame. A loose side plate would cause a longer trigger pull. The problem with swapping the L-arm is that the replacement L-arm may have the same dimensions as the original, or it could even be a worse fit with more play. First, determine that the side plate fits tightly against the frame. Then inspect the side plate assembly for damage or "modification" by a previous owner, such as file marks or a non-original retaining pin. Doubs' suggestion is a sound potential fix.

Karl

[shinji_ikari]

Just tried the tape trick. Yes it is lightening the break. Actually at the moment I have 6 layers of tape on it.

Correct me it I am wrong, the 'L' transfer bar is NOT numbered, and thus would be considered like a spring in that it is replicable without affecting value, correct?

My intention is to have a gun that I can shoot from time to time. That said I do also see it as part of history and want to treat it as such.

Again, thank you,

Stephen

[shinji_ikari]

Originally Posted by Karl

Stephen,

Mac Cat brings up a good point. If the side plate is not original to the gun then that could be the source of the very long trigger pull. The side plate is fitted to the gun. It must fit tightly against the frame. A loose side plate would cause a longer trigger pull. The problem with swapping the L-arm is that the replacement L-arm may have the same dimensions as the original, or it could even be a worse fit with more play. First, determine that the side plate fits tightly against the frame. Then inspect the side plate assembly for damage or "modification" by a previous owner, such as file marks or a non-original retaining pin. Doubs' suggestion is a sound potential fix.

Karl

The side plate is matching to the receiver. The only numbered part I have seen that is not matching is the firing pin, and that has one of the numbers the same and the other is obscured. I was told it was a numbers matching gun before I purchased it, I did not tear it down prior to purchase, just went with the visible markings.

Well, I am off to watch some youtube on JB weld and then to HD in the morning to get some along with some 600 and 1000 grit sandpaper.

Will add this to the list of gun repairs I have done to include fitting a WC ambi safety to my Kimber 1911.

Again, Thank YOu,

Stephen

[Doubs]

The L-arm itself is not numbered and can be easily replaced.

The contact between the L-arm and trigger is not a stress point so a little JB Weld should work fine. Once it sets you can file it to the correct thickness. You can also buy another L-arm and save the original.

[lugerholsterrepair]

I once had a shooter Luger with a light smooth beautiful trigger pull. Someone had replaced the original spring with a ball point pen spring.

[gunbugs]

I've ended up with a couple of Lugers that had the same issue. After some examination and thought, I removed the trigger, and clamped it in a vise, and gently drove the top of the trigger notch down slightly, so it would engage the trigger bar sooner. Worked great, and no extra material needed. Go gently, a little goes a long way.

https://forum.lugerforum.com/attachm...1&d=1658018091

[Doubs]

Originally Posted by gunbugs

I've ended up with a couple of Lugers that had the same issue. After some examination and thought, I removed the trigger, and clamped it in a vise, and gently drove the top of the trigger notch down slightly, so it would engage the trigger bar sooner. Worked great, and no extra material needed. Go gently, a little goes a long way.

https://forum.lugerforum.com/attachm...1&d=1658018091

I've also done that a time or two but not knowing the OP's skill level I decided not to mention it. It does work great and, I suspect, is how a unit armorer may have corrected the problem. The JB Weld solution is safer but either will work.

[shinji_ikari]

I am guessing the trigger is not hardened. Since this is a numbers matching piece I will opt for the JB weld. I do not have a way to apply a constant, measured amount of force.

Since the JB takes time to cure and then I have to work it will be several days before I report back.

I will try to remember to take pictures before and after at least. Honestly I am not good at the 'lets take pictures' part. I am more of a 'lets get it done guy'.

Thank you,

Stephen

[shinji_ikari]

Do have the JB weld setting now. Of course I did not think about pictures till after.

Got some 800 and 1000 grit sandpaper, and a pane of glass so I have something flat to use as a surface. I plan to use duct tape to secure the sandpaper to the glass.

This morning I put another piece of tape on the 'transfer lever' and came up with 8 layers of tape to get a trigger I like. Note I am NOT going for a 'hair' trigger. I am simply wanting to have to apply as much force as other firearms I have, so I can try to shoot for groups.

Gunsprings.com is gonna be sending me a set of Luger springs. I still am planning on changing the trigger spring at least, and will have the others just in case.

Thank you again,

Stephen

[G.T.]

Hi to all, working on Luger fire control parts can be very frustrating, and also very expensive! It's like hunting ducks in the desert, you're in the wrong place right from the get go? So, first things first, we need to determine if we have a broken/defective part or assembly, or an altered part that has attracted our attention. That's the easy part to start with, making sure all the good parts are interacting properly, that's the hard part. So again, we need to make sure the frame assembly is doing all it is supposed to, and likewise the receiver assembly. Let's start with the frame assembly. My first check is the trigger as in, can you pull it all the way back, and when you release it will it go all the way? You may have to form the front loop part until it matches the radius of the triggerguard to got full forward travel, then make sure the trigger spring returns it smoothly to full forward as well. Then we need to test fit the side plate to the frame and make sure it is square, tight, and inline with the receiver. After we have accomplished that, then we need to inspect the trigger lever. It is important that when the trigger is relaxed, the top part of the trigger lever has enough travel to almost dissappear into the sideplate relief provided for it. And when the trigger is pulled all the way back to the frame, the same beveled end of the trigger lever lines up with the vertical front edge of the sideplate as well. That is just about all the frame assembly can do?
Now to the receiver, keep in mind weak springs are not usually the problem, but they can certainly aggrivate the problem, so we will only refer to them when we feel the need to address a specific issue or re-occuring problem other then trigger pull. So lets start out with the two most important items concerning trigger pull and sear break! They are the sear bar and the firing pin! These two parts influence a good or acceptible trigger pull in most Lugers all else being correct, or nearly so. If there parts are worn in the sear notch area, all kinds of mailfunctions can arise, not to mention doubling and failure to reset on closing. The sear bar return spring can additionally influence this as well, but only if the worn sear problem alread exists. At this point, we need to make sure the disconnector plunger is free and not deformed, as well as having a nice stiff feel to it. It is critical to the reset when the receiver return to battery, it then needs sufficient energy to defeat the trigger lever to reset for the next trigger pull. So, we put the Luger back together and walla! It doesn't work! It's doing one of two things, it either won't fire, (not pushing sear bar in far enough, bend sear bar out) or, it won't disconnect (won't push the disconnector pin past the trigger lever, bend the sear bar in)
OK, now that we have determined what we need to do, in or out, bridge the sear bar on two plastic blocks, and with a plastic bar tap on the sear bar right at the notch where it goes on the receiver, you can tap, install, test as you go by measuring it in relation to the protectivr shelf right above the sear bar on the receiver. OK, back to reassembly and testing, final desired result!
The trigger when pulled, should break right befor it contacts the frame, and the disconnector should click/release just before it, the trigger, touches the trigger guard? Both of these opperations should occur with about .020" to .040" of travel yet left before contact.
See! Piece of cake! BTW, nothing like having a pile of spare parts to make it all happen! Best to all, til.....lat'r.....GT

[shinji_ikari]

The side plate is tight when locked in place. The disconnector plunger spring seems to be functioning correctly, it is not stiff when depressing, and does not stick when released.

I know the 'L' lever is supposed to be hardened, but it is almost like someone tried to force the gun to fire while it was on safe and bent to lever. After I put the tape on the lever it progressively got better as I added layers.

As I said above, I am not looking for a 'hair' trigger. I just want to gun to go off without having to pull so hard that there is no way to not have a jerking response, and thus be able to hit where I am aiming.

Thank you,

Stephen

[Karl]

Stephen,

It would be nice to see photos of you new acquisition when you get the chance.

Karl

[shinji_ikari]

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Agl-OeaYpBFYylyqE1gesxSjCepu

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Agl-OeaYpBFYylnYErWgALHcJtPn

https://1drv.ms/u/s!Agl-OeaYpBFYylu6BDgrjrHE4dnRhttps://1drv.ms/u/s!Agl-OeaYpBFYylu6BDgrjrHE4dnR

Yeah my phone is not the best camera.

I noticed, before buying, that someone scratched their initials into the left side of the frame.

Am not planning on leaving the JB weld as a glob.

Thanks again,

Stephen

[shinji_ikari]

I tried to use the picture adding feature, but it did not work, so I just put direct links in.

Thank you for the interest,

Stephen