ID of Luger grips symbol

I replaced a set of grips on an 1920 Commercial with a set from Hugh and just noticed that the old set was stamped on the inside with the capital letter "P", Anyone know what the "P" stands for. The grips appear to be original, not repros.

[Marvin]

REB,


I may be totally off base on this, but I think the "P" is an inspection stamp for the grips since it was for a commercial Luger.


The military Luger grips many times have the last 2 digits of the serial number and many don't. Some have the Waffenamt stamp and some don't. Some have no stamps at all. It is very difficult to tell if the grips on the pistol are the original except for any "wear pattern" that can be detected. Just my thoughts.


Marvin

Marvin,


Thanks for the response. The inspectors stamp makes sense. I'm resonably sure they are original they have the pointed corner features found on originals. The gun was taken from a bad guy in Detroit by my grandfather (Detroit PD) probably in the 30s or early 40s and was never used until I got it. The grips have some oil soaking thats why I replaced them.


Thanks for the help.

[Marvin]

REB,


Please don't get rid of the original grips!!! If they are oil soaked, the oil can be removed and the checkering can be recut if in bad condition. Hugh is a magician at recutting the checkering and when he finishes with them, they look almost new again. You may want to contact Hugh about having this done as his work is superb. A friend of mine had Hugh recut the checkering on his and I thought they looked new again.


In the General Information Section, "Frequently Asked Questions", there is a guide to cleaning the grips of the oil. Just be aware that if heavily oiled soaked, Brownell's sells a compound which will safely removed all the oil from the grips and there is no problem with them becoming warped from excess water. Once they are clean, the recheckering will be great and you will have a spare set of grips.


Marvin

Marvin,


Thanks for the tip. Actually the oil soaking is around the area of the safety lever near the frame (both grips),the original checkering is very good (no dents or wear). I didn't think I could get the oil out so I bought a new set from Hugh. I will try your idea on removing the oil.


Thanks again for the help.

[ViggoG]

Please do try to save the grips .

I have haD EXCELLENT results in

removing oil from old gunstocks

by placing the grips in a ziplock

freezer bag and adding acetone or

methyl ketone, ( both available in

most hardware or paint stores ),in

sufficient quanity to cover the

parts to be degreased . Hold the

parts in the bottom and roll the

bag to remove most or all of the air.

Seal the bag and leave to soak for

about eight (8) hours per inch of

thickness. Pour off the fluid and

repeat one or more times as needed

to fully remove all oil. I have used

this toremove the oil from badly oil

soaked rifle stocks prior to plastic

rebedding The barrel and actions .

I was able to salvage some very sloppy

fitting stocks in this manner .

The natural oils are what gives the

wood its beauty and must be replaced

by applying boiled lindseed oil

( must be boiled variety as plain

lindseed oil never dries and remains

a sticky mess for many years)The oil

is best applied warm with a small oil

soaked pad and lots of rubbing . The

more coats the better. ( up to 5 or 6 )

ViggoG

Thanks for the great information - I will try it tonight.

Thanks again.

Rod