Question

[MG]

Hello again,
I should receive my .30 Luger from the dealer this week, but now I am not sure if it is just a shooter or is an all orginal gun. The # is 7816h, DWM on toggle and I was wondering if this is a real number for a 1920's gun? I bought it mostly because I think it is an all matching gun and it will be my frist one that is.
(yes I bought online,but I have had good luck so far).What should I look for to see if is a made up? I know what to look for on Military Lugers but can not find anything about commercials.(I tried the search engine but did not see what I am looking for). I may just be paranoid about this as I have had a bad day. I will try to post pics when in.

Thanks Again
Michael

[maddog350gt]

Michael,

I think the commercial arena is the least popular in the Luger world, but as time goes on it is generating more interest. With a 7816h serial number your gun is classified as a 1920 commercial (Kenyon, Lugers at random pg 180). If you donâ??t have a copy of Lugers at Random you should get one. This is what Kenyon says under â??General Remarksâ?�

â??Manufactured or reworked by DWM, or reworked by lesser known firms, for commercial sales in Germany and at large. As may were made up from whatever type of military Luger was available, an from surplus used parts, nearly any type of barrel length, caliber, safety and sight combination is possible. Most often found, however, is the type shown above with a 3 7/8" barrel in 7.65 m/m. Most of the reworked military examples have the chamber dates and military proofs removed, with variable workmanship, while those of new manufacture generally are of excellent quality. â??GERMANYâ?� or â??MADE IN GERMANYâ?� is usually stamped somewhere on the weapon.â?�

You should look for matching serial numbers (last two digits), at least on the parts that are marked. There won't be as many parts that are serial numbered as on a military gun. Look for the correct finish, rust blue with straw on the, trigger, take down lever, safety, magazine release, and ejector. Check to see the gun has not been re-blued with a darker but shinier salt blue. Look to see that the contour edges and markings are sharp and have not been rounded over by buffing. 1923 could have a lot of variations in what is marked as DWM used a lot of old parts to produce guns for sale after the war. The parts that are marked should have matching numbers. Many 1920 guns will have minimum proofing, maybe just a Crown/N. I am not sure how or if the grip are marked, someone else may be able to help here. The grips should be checkered Walnut. The magazine should be the plated sheet-metal two piece construction and have an unmarked or Germany marked wooden end cap.

When you get your gun post pictures of what marks are on it. The members here are very knowledgeable and can probably give you what information is available.

Welcome, I am sure this wonâ??t be your last Luger. Like the potato chips, you can't just have one!

Bob M.

[Don M]

I thought the DWM Alphabet series (per Jan Still's definition) began with the suffix "i".

[Lugerdoc]

Don et al, Your are correct about the new production commericals, so one in the "h" suffix block is probably a reworked WW1 military. If the grips were changed when reworked, they will be unnumbered. TH

[MG]

Hello,
Well my .30 Luger came in and its just great! All numbers on outside match but the breechblock? is a different number inside. The finish is rust blue 90% (little holster ware) with straw on the trigger, take down lever, safety, magazine release, and ejector. The gun has NOT been buffed. Marked Geladen ,safety marked with Gesichert AND a S were the lever is when on safe. Wood bottom clip plated sheet-metal two piece with no markings with a coil spring and original wood grips. Crown/N on frame, toggle breechblock and the bore is a 95 for cleanness and sharp lands. So should I shoot it as the numbers do not match inside or is this normal for a commercial? You can really tell the difference on a rust blue vs a salt blue finish as I put my shooter next to this gun and it jumps out at you.(I really like the rust blue MUCH nicer looking finish). I may need a axle? pin as this one looks chipped alittle on edge.(pin at back of toggle).

Now I need a holster for this gun
Happy New Year
Michael :

[Lugerdoc]

Michael, If your breech block has a number at the rear that doesn't match, that is OK. Only if it has a mismatched number on the left side, would it be considered non-matching. I'm not framiliar with the "S" that you mention iabove the safety lever. How about a shot of that. TH

[Pete Ebbink]

The "S" at the thumb safety lever position has piqued my interest also...

I usually only see those on the M1929 Swiss Bern lugers and the "swiss style" Masuer lugers from the 1970-80's...???

[MG]

Hello TH, and Pete,
At the moment I do not have a camera but will try to get one so I can post a picture. The S is on it's side with the top pointed toward the rear of the gun, a capital letter, and is covered when safety is on. (why I did not see it before). It is about 2mm tall? about the size of a primer for a .45ACP. I looked in Microsoft notepad and looks like the MS PMincho font S, but not on a slant. The barrel and the frame both have 7816h on them. And the side plate is marked 16 on bottom edge near trigger but has a mark inside that looks like a closed 5? (I used a loop and that is what it looks like, bottom of five is closed). Very smooth trigger and action. What else should match number wise? Just outside parts? I have not had time to shoot her so I may wait on that if it is an all matching gun. this will be my very first Luger that is matching.

Happy New Year
Michael

[Lugerdoc]

MG, Your locking bolt may very well is number on the lower edge, commerical style, like your side plate. The #5 inside your side plate is most likely an inspector's number. TH