Barrel Changing Instructions.

[John Sabato]

There is a new album in the Member Gallery that contains the pages of the 1924 Pacific Arms catalog...

Here is an extract of one of the pages that provides rather optimistic (and humorous) instructions on how to change your barrel.



Anyone who has ever removed a Luger barrel, will probably be rolling on the floor with laughter. <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> Removing a Luger barrel is not a job for the feint of heart ! <img border="0" alt="[ouch]" title="" src="graemlins/c.gif" /> It requires special tools and much muscle to prevent damaging the Luger receiver...

(SO MUCH FOR THE WITNESS MARK THEORY OF BARREL INSTALLATION, EH DWIGHT?) <img border="0" alt="[typing]" title="" src="graemlins/yltype.gif" />

[ViggoG]

OK John,
I'll be the Devils Advocate !
Has Any One replaced any Barrel on a "New Luger" and still lives to tell about it ? <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />
"Sort of funny sounding when put forth that way".
&gt;
But there is absolutly nothing to have prevented the manufacture of totally interchangable barrels for the Luger Pistol in the early years.
&gt;
The Gaging Techniques and Machining Capability were available for use and there is no reason to believe that such Techniques were not applied.
Who can say that 100 hard years has not caused these specimens that we now call "Shooters" to oxidize and partially seized in the joint.
&gt;
I would not be willing to bet that any of the finest Aerospace products that I produced, to the Highest standards of "Manned Flight Rated", would be readily removable 100 years hence.
&gt;
I know, within my experience, that such was possible, and was so experienced by at least one reputable source on the "Old Forum", whether it was actually used in practice, I have to accept on faith in the reputation of the producer.
&gt;
ViggoG

[Hugh]

John,

they fail to mention the 36" pipe wrench that you "gently turn" the receiver with! And the nice deep groove that you cut in those wood blocks with the front sight ramp when the barrel turns with the receiver!
<img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" /> <img border="0" alt="[hiha]" title="" src="graemlins/roflmao.gif" />

[Adam]

Hello Everyone. Just wanted to let you know, I have replaced the barrel on my luger three times in the past. The first time it was a real backbreaker, but after that it has been a fairly simple task. I have told this once before in the past two weeks or so. When I first got my luger it had a shot-out 30cal barrel and the fellow I bought it from gave me a new repro barrel he had purchased for it. After contacting all the local gunsmiths, I found out I was on my own (not to mention that I had no money to pay anyone to do it ). So, I did some studying on how to make a tool to hold the receiver without marring it. The first was made from a peice of old wood, and quickly snapped under pressure. The second I made a bit larger and out of better wood. After lots of soaking with WD-40 and some pain in my back and shoulders, it broke free. I installed the 9mm 4inch barrel I had gotten with the gun, it required a tiny bit of work on the shoulder to allw the extractor to line up, but the headspace came out perfect (pure luck was my guess). I soon tired of the 4inch and wanted to try something different so I ordered a 16inch from GPC. Took little to no effort to remove the barrel this time. Repeated same procedure with the shoulder of the 16inch and again near perfect headspace! (Still considered it to be luck) I then decided on a artillery barrel. I bought a 8inch repro on ebay but when I received it I noticed right away it was not going to work, so it was quickly resold. (remember, when I was doing all this I was new to Lugers and had no idea about the differences in luger types but did have quite a bit of gunsmithing experience on other types of firearms.) Finally after much though, I ordered a GPC 6inch barrel. Again, I used the same wooden tool and easily removed the barrel and lined up the extractor, checked the headspace and amazingly, my luck had held out! I have since sold all my other barrels and decided I like the one I have. I am sure that it can not be removed by hand and it hasnt moved in over a year now, so I got it on there good. I beleive that over the years they have seized, but could have been swapped very easily in their younger years. NOW, I am not saying everyone should try it! I was risking my luger and mabey some fingers in the process of swapping the barrel the first time. I cant stress this enough, "IF YOU DO SWAP BARRELS, BE SURE THE HEADSPACE IS CORRECT!" If you dont, you may find yourself in the hospital or the afterlife when you try to fire it! I am no expert, I am only telling you of my experience in the matter.

[Dwight Gruber]

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Originally posted by Adam:
<strong>I bought a 8inch repro on ebay but when I received it I noticed right away it was not going to work, so it was quickly resold.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,Helvetica,Geneva">Adam,

Your exercise has been very interesting. Could you say what exactly was wrong with the Artillery barrel, why it was not going to work?

--Dwight

[Lugerdoc]

Years ago, before I knew what I was doing or had the proper tools, I tried the Pacific Arms method of barrel changing on a 7.65mm 20 Commerical shot out barrel that I did not plan to save. I mounted barrel in vise, without the wood block, so the pressure as you can image, was on the front sight base, which was destroyed, and it actually twist 90 degrees, before the barrel released from the receiver. TH

[Adam]

Dwight, I was under the impression when I bought the barrel that it was made by a expert machinist who had made custom luger barrels and parts for over 15 years, which was untrue. The reasons the artillery would not work, 1. It could not be screwed all the way in, it would have protruded into the receiver too far and I was not in the mood to do the type of modification needed to fix it. 2. The rear sight would not have fit correctly because it would have hit the receiver.3.IMHO, it was a poorly made barrel and the rear sight was a mess (it was also a repro that had a uneven pin, so as you raised it, it went up and to the right. You can see how that was a problem. It would have been far too time consuming to try and correct all the small defects. I sold the barrel to a fellow who seemed very pleased with it,although, I am sure he has had to do major work (unless there are more differences between my alphabet and a arty than I know about) As I said, I am far from being an expert, common sense just told me it wasnt worth butchering my receiver or doing major work to the barrel.

[Ron Wood]

Adam,
That artillery barrel that you bought was correct (except for the fact that it may have protruded too far into the breech and would have needed to be faced back and headspaced), and with it you have learned something about artilleries. The sight is supposed to move to the right as the sight is elevated to compensate for the driftof the bullet at longer ranges due to spin imparted by the rifling. Also, if you look at some close up pictures of artillery Lugers, you will see that the receiver is notched on the top forward edge to clear they rear sight when it is in the down position.

[TOGGLELOCK]

Guys, I'll have to photo a Luger barrel. This barrel is not attached to a receiver and appears to be in mint condition.