Need advice on Non-working Luger

LarryT · 02-15-2003, 12:52 PM

I'm still looking for my first Luger and I did run into one at a gun show recently. It was pretty hard to ****, did have a hold-open, when I released the toggle to gently close it, (not knowing at that time that it is not good to dry fire a Luger) I pulled the trigger and the firing pin did not function. Otherwise, it was a pretty nice Luger with mostly matched parts, good grips, very nice bore. He called it a "parts gun" so what should I offer him and how difficult would it be to repair? Thanks for your comments.
Larry

Aaron · 02-15-2003, 12:58 PM

Are you absolutely sure you pulled the toggle back all the way? Sounds like you really didn't **** the action.

lugerholsterrepair · 02-15-2003, 01:38 PM

To **** the fireing pin on a Luger takes very little pull back, about one half to three quarters of an inch from the breech face. If it was pulled back far enough to discover the hold open then that certainly should **** the weapon.I have discovered, in my later years, that this is a common problem. Lugerdoc and Thor seem to believe it is the connecting lever in the sideplate not travelling far enough back into it's recess to enable the sear bar to re-ingage with the step on the fireing pin. Jerry Burney

Dwight Gruber · 02-15-2003, 02:00 PM

Larry,

"Parts guns" are notorious beasts. Lugers are hand-fitted guns, all parts assembled to assure that they work together--this is one reason that matching serial number guns are desirable.

The more unmatched parts you find on a Luger, the greater the chances it will fail to function. This is particularly true if the mismatch is in the area of the trigger, sideplate, sear bar, and firing pin.

A parts gun can be made to work, but most gunsmiths you find will not have the specialized knowledge necessary to do a proper job. Check with Lugerdoc (Tom Heller) or Hugh Clark on this forum for more specific comments.

As far as an offer is concerned, this is a very difficult question. It turns on just how many (and which) parts are not matched, and their condition. As a buyer, faced with a real hodgepodge parts gun (that doesn't function!), I might offer as low as $250-$300. As a seller, I might not be interested in such a low offer.

Two other things to consider: the parts in a parts gun might be worth more sold separately than as a whole gun (a controversial practice); the cost of a non-functional parts gun plus the cost of making it function may well equal the cost of a functioning, shooting-worthy Luger.

You didn't say, in your post, whether you are looking for a Luger to shoot, or to be the beginning of a collection. This is a question you should answer for yourself before you consider a purchase, as this will point you a direction for your search.

I would solidly suggest that you do not consider buying a project gun as your first Luger, but that you spend your money on a sound, authentic, working pistol so that your first experience is not frustration.

I hope these comments are useful--good luck, good hunting, and be sure to tell us all the details when you fnally take the plunge.

--Dwight

LarryT · 02-15-2003, 03:33 PM

Thanks for the sage advice fellows. I don't trust this dealer anyway. He tried to sell me another weapon that had excessive trigger work making it a very dangerous .44 mag. I also have a very reputable WWII collector looking for a Luger for me. Also the shop in Grand Forks called pitching their 7.65 again. So things are starting to happen and its only a matter of time...and my patience. Thanks for the help !!

Larry

02-15-2003, 12:52 PM	#1
LarryT User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Indianapolis, Indiana Posts: 50 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Need advice on Non-working Luger I'm still looking for my first Luger and I did run into one at a gun show recently. It was pretty hard to ****, did have a hold-open, when I released the toggle to gently close it, (not knowing at that time that it is not good to dry fire a Luger) I pulled the trigger and the firing pin did not function. Otherwise, it was a pretty nice Luger with mostly matched parts, good grips, very nice bore. He called it a "parts gun" so what should I offer him and how difficult would it be to repair? Thanks for your comments. Larry

02-15-2003, 01:38 PM	#3
lugerholsterrepair Moderator Lifetime Forum Patron Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Arizona/Colorado Posts: 7,772 Thanks: 4,940 Thanked 3,124 Times in 1,434 Posts	To ** the fireing pin on a Luger takes very little pull back, about one half to three quarters of an inch from the breech face. If it was pulled back far enough to discover the hold open then that certainly should ** the weapon.I have discovered, in my later years, that this is a common problem. Lugerdoc and Thor seem to believe it is the connecting lever in the sideplate not travelling far enough back into it's recess to enable the sear bar to re-ingage with the step on the fireing pin. Jerry Burney __________________ Jerry Burney 11491 S. Guadalupe Drive Yuma AZ 85367-6182 l[email protected] 928 342-7583 (CO & AZ) Year Round 719 207-3331 (cell) "For those who Fight For It, Life has a flavor the protected will never know."

02-15-2003, 12:58 PM	#2
Aaron Banned Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Vista, CA Posts: 1,008 Thanks: 0 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts	Are you absolutely sure you pulled the toggle back all the way? Sounds like you really didn't **** the action.

02-15-2003, 02:00 PM	#4
Dwight Gruber User Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 3,902 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1,318 Times in 431 Posts	Larry, "Parts guns" are notorious beasts. Lugers are hand-fitted guns, all parts assembled to assure that they work together--this is one reason that matching serial number guns are desirable. The more unmatched parts you find on a Luger, the greater the chances it will fail to function. This is particularly true if the mismatch is in the area of the trigger, sideplate, sear bar, and firing pin. A parts gun can be made to work, but most gunsmiths you find will not have the specialized knowledge necessary to do a proper job. Check with Lugerdoc (Tom Heller) or Hugh Clark on this forum for more specific comments. As far as an offer is concerned, this is a very difficult question. It turns on just how many (and which) parts are not matched, and their condition. As a buyer, faced with a real hodgepodge parts gun (that doesn't function!), I might offer as low as $250-$300. As a seller, I might not be interested in such a low offer. Two other things to consider: the parts in a parts gun might be worth more sold separately than as a whole gun (a controversial practice); the cost of a non-functional parts gun plus the cost of making it function may well equal the cost of a functioning, shooting-worthy Luger. You didn't say, in your post, whether you are looking for a Luger to shoot, or to be the beginning of a collection. This is a question you should answer for yourself before you consider a purchase, as this will point you a direction for your search. I would solidly suggest that you do not consider buying a project gun as your first Luger, but that you spend your money on a sound, authentic, working pistol so that your first experience is not frustration. I hope these comments are useful--good luck, good hunting, and be sure to tell us all the details when you fnally take the plunge. --Dwight

02-15-2003, 03:33 PM	#5
LarryT User Join Date: Jan 2003 Location: Indianapolis, Indiana Posts: 50 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Thanks for the sage advice fellows. I don't trust this dealer anyway. He tried to sell me another weapon that had excessive trigger work making it a very dangerous .44 mag. I also have a very reputable WWII collector looking for a Luger for me. Also the shop in Grand Forks called pitching their 7.65 again. So things are starting to happen and its only a matter of time...and my patience. Thanks for the help !! Larry